Isn't She A Beauty

Thank you Jennifer for sending me this beautiful picture of a Mandevilla.  This is a beautiful example of a small plant that can become very large as it vines its way up.  Jennifer, can you tell us how lod your plant is and do you keep it prunned to be sure that it does not get to big?

For those of you who have never seen a Mandevilla, this is a pink one and the easiest to find.  It also comes in white, red and yellow.  I will dedicate a posting on this plant soon.

Jennifer also sent me a second plant that was not in bloom but it is one of my favorites too.  It is a jasmine plant.  Unfortunately, my download failed.  Maybe we can get Jennifer to resend this picture and hopefully it will be in bloom. 

 Thanks again.

Begonia Part 2 - Tubers and Corms

Regal Begonia

Beauty from a Corm

I love this flower.  It is as beautiful as a rose and much more sturdy. The stem is short which means that it would be hard to place it in a bouquet but a single bloom in a shallow dish can really make a statement.  This is a Begonia Rex or sometimes called a Regal Begonia.  It is grown for it's majestic flower and it starts with a corm.

Corm of a Rex Begonia

For those of you who do not know what a corm is, it is a type of tuber.  The tuber most people are familiar with is a potato. As potatoes come in all different shapes and sizes so do tubers.  Corms are in the specific shape that is referred to as a button. Much like a bulb, it has an up and down side to it and needs to be planted correctly for the best results.  Unlike a bulb new plants will grow from the same corm and it can be easily propagated by cuttings the corm into pieces.  You just need to be sure that there is a good "eye" on each piece.  The corm is planted quite shallow in a wide mouth pot and placed in a well lit location.  You can buy this Begonia already blooming but for a bigger variety you can start with corms from a number of good growers.  I do not want to endorse any in particular so I will suggest that you ask the experts starting with The American Begonia Society .

Tubers That Are Not Corms

Also, included in the tuber family is the Begonia that they call a Rhizomatous Begonia.  This tuber looks more like a lumpy potato  and as you can see it can be quite large.  If you go to my Pinterest board on Begonias I have included a picture of a tuber without dirt and you can see that this style of tuber is more complex but much easier to cut apart for creating new plants. You plant it the same as you would the corm.   I have added a planting diagram at the bottom of the page to help answer any questions you may have.

The Rhizonatous Begonia usually does not have a showy flower and is mainly grown for its interesting leaf.  This is mine.  The leaves are about the size of a man's hand and have a hairy surface that kind of feels like new beard stubble.  The stems are very hairy.  I added a picture of the flower on the last posting so I will not take up space here.  What you do not know is how small the flower is.  Look closely at the upper part of the picture and you will see a small branching to the back of the plant.  This is not another plant behind my Begonia. It is the flower.  I will be adding some more of these beauties to my Pinterest board so you can see how beautiful they are.

Care

Like the rest of this family most tuber Begonias like bright but not direct sunlight.  It will be quite happy in an Eastern window.  If you need to put it in a Southern or Western window you would be wise to keep it back from the actual light by about 2 feet.

Some tuber Begonias will become dormant.  If yours starts to look peeked then this may be the problem.  Stop watering and allow it to rest.  If you loose all your leaves you will need to check the the tuber to be sure there is no rotting.  Replant in new potting medium and wait to see new growth before you begin to water.

Begonias like damp soil but not wet so be careful not to over water as they will rot.  They would prefer to be misted daily or placed on a humidity tray like I have mentioned.  

Well, that is it for today.  I hope you like my posting today.  I got more into the how and would like your opinion on this posting.  Would you like more postings like this, that would cover things like propagation through cuttings and seeds?

Add your comment to this blog or email me at  houseplantsos@gmail.com . Remember  to send me any questions you have or you can contact me through Fiverr to set up a Skype  diagnosis visit.

Til then, all my best.
k.k.jones

One last word, a Strawberry Begonia is not a Begonia.  I think it is called that because of the shape of its leaf.  We can discuss that at another sitting.
 

The Humble Begonia

From the Website of
The American Begonia Society

You know the cute little flowers that your grandmother put in her garden as an annual?  That is the Humble Begonia.  But it really is not as humble as you would think.  This little Begonia is part of a genus that has 1500 species and is the sixth-largest angiosperm genus. Not that you really wanted to know that but I thought it highlight the importance of this little "disposable" plant.  It is from the subtropics much like the Gardenias that we spoke about last time.  It is commonly called a Wax Begonia though its proper name is a Semperfloren.

Why Talk About An Annual In Houseplants?

Because it is it did not start out as a garden annual.  The Semperfloren is a shrub which is one of four divisions of Begonias. In areas where there is no danger of frost the Wax Begonia will continue to grow year round.  Many will also do very well indoors as a ever-blooming houseplant.   These little plants and other Begonia's like the Angel Wing Begonia have been staples in the English Conservatories and Greenhouses for years.  In fact there has been a National Begonia Society in the UK since 1945.  The Angel Wing Begonia is the closest in looks but it usually is collected for its beautiful foliage.  If you look at my Board on Pinterest I have shown two different examples of the beautiful Angel Wing.  Below you will see a Begonia that has the waxy look of a Semperfloren but the leaf shape more angel like.  I do believe that this is a Wax Begonia because of the size of the flowers.

So How Do You Take Care Of Your Begonia?

Taken at Rockledge Gardens, Rockledge, Florida

The best time to buy a Begonia is the Spring for obvious reason.  You can let them summer outside but I would not put them in bright sun or in the ground.  The reason for this is because when you bring them inside it will take longer for your plant to acclimate itself to its new home.  If you have a greenhouse window your Begonia will be very happy there.  Southern windows make nice homes, as well as a Western or Eastern. Since you can buy Semperfloren in six packs go ahead and try different locations throughout your home.  If your plant is getting too much sun, It will have burn marks on its leaves and if there is not enough sun, then it will get tall and lanky with leaves being sparse.

Flower of a Rhizomatous  Begonia
which we will talk about another time

Now for watering. 

Like many of the plants we have spoken about in this blog, the Begonia does not like wet feet.  In other words, too much water is a bad thing.  The best way to water is to place it on top of a saucer like you did your Gardenia. Water from above and let the excess fill the sauce below.  Make sure that the pot stays above the waterline.  A larger saucer will create a micro climate for humidity that most Begonias like.  Do not over water.

One last thing. 

 Begonias like to be a little pot bound.  If you place them in too large of a container they may die. If your plant is staying wet too long and looking peaked, then this might be the problem. Repot into a container that is the same size as the root ball after you have removed all the wet soil.  Use a good soil-less potting mixture for the best results. 

Well that is all for today.  Next time I will tell you about the Rhizomatous Begonia which is grown more for its beautiful leaves rather than its flowers.  The flowers are small and almost inconsequential as you can see if you again go to my Board on Pinterest .  I have added one more link for you to use as I have found it very useful Brad's Begonia World . Until next time I hope that this blog give you a home greener than before.

Please email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com or add your comments below.  If you need special help you can contact me through Fiverr where we can set up a consultation through Skype or a phone conversation.   

k.k.jones

The Gardenias Are In Bloom

  

You will see them popping up in garden centers and florists everywhere, making them a perfect gift for Mom on her special day.  If you received a bush for Mother's Day or are planning to purchase one for yourself there are a couple of things you should know.

Blossoms and a beautiful new bud

The Gardenia is a genus consisting of 142 species ranging in size from 2 to 49 feet.  The one you probably own is a Gardenia jasminoides which is commonly cultivated for a houseplant because they will only grow to 18 inches indoors.  This genus originates in tropical and subtropical regions of the world making it not hardy as an outside plant in the north.  Some people (including my sweet mother) love the flower so much that they plant larger bushes in pots for their patio.  If you want to try this, remember that you will have to find a home for them during the winter.  I did recently come across an advertisement for a new Frost Proof Gardenia that says that it is hardy even in the Midwest.  I am not endorsing it but I have included a link to Fast-Growing-Trees.com for anyone who wants to check it out.

Now back to your Gardenia

When you got your beautiful new bush it was probably covered with blossoms and lots of promising buds.  Now only a week later the buds have started to fall off.  Do not panic.  It is not unusual for a plant to go through a trauma when it is moved to a new home.  I will not lie to you.  Gardenias are not the easiest plant to keep in the house.  The reason for this is that being a tropical native it likes lots of humidity.  The trick is to give your plant enough humidity and still be able to live in your house.  The most labor intensive way of doing this is to mist the whole plant at least two times a day.  I don't know about you but I do not have the time for that.  And the flowers will not last as long if they get wet.
Instead set up a micro climate.  This can be done in two ways.  One you can get a table top greenhouse like the one shown on Gardenista. These tend to be small so be sure of their dimensions before you purchase.  The easiest option is to find a leak proof saucer that is larger than the circumference of your plant.  Fill it with stones so that your plant will sit above the water you will be adding to the saucer.  As the water evaporates the plant will be encased with the humidity.   This should take care of the humidity problem.

What else you should know

Gardenias like a lot of sun. The aphid that we spoke of last time find them very tasty. Spider mites should not be a problem only if you pay attention to the humidity.  Your Gardenia likes an acidic soil so you can share your morning coffee with it if you don't use cream.  In fact, your plant would love it if you give it some coffee grounds now and then.  

The Gardenia Bud

Well, I think that should give you enough information for today.  I would love to see your Gardenia.  Please send me a photo at houseplantsos@gmail.com.  Also, if you have a plant problem you need help with you can email me or post it right here.  Thanks for joining me today.

Sincerely,
k.k.jones

What is a Jewel Orchid?

 

A Beautiful Houseplant

Here is an orchid that is really worth looking at for a beginner indoor gardener.  It is called a Ludisia discolor and is one of the only orchids that is grown for the foliage and not its small white flower.





Flower is smaller than a dime

This orchid is so easy to grow that each grower has their own opinion on what kind of potting medium to grow it in. The Jewel Orchid is not like the last few orchids that we have spoken about.  It does not grow in trees; it grows on the ground.  So you need something a little heavier but still not just dirt.  My Jewel is in a good potting soil mix.  A mix means that there is organic material in the bag to help hold moisture but still allows air pockets for the plant to drain.  Some growers will tell you to create a mix of 1/3 soil, 1/3 peat and 1/3 bark.  There are also commercial potting mixtures available for just terrestrial orchids.
 





From Indonesia and Burma 

 

The Jewel Orchid is from the jungles of Indonesia and Burma so it likes a warm, humid environment.  Average day temperatures should be between 70 and 80 degrees.  I have read that night temperatures can go as low as 10 degrees but I don't think I want to try it. 

 

My Jewel Orchid likes a semi sunny location which helps to keep it warm.  It summers in a semi shady patio which is like a sunny window.  You should probably place your orchid in an eastern  window. 

 

Humidity

 

If you are not able to mist your Jewel Orchid twice a day then you should go with a humidity tray.  This is a tray that you put under your plant that is full of stones.  The tray should be larger than the pot that holds your orchid and has enough stones in it so that your orchid will not get wet when you fill the tray with water.  Water will evaporate and create a humid environment for any plant sitting on the tray.  This method works well with most orchids and you might want to consider a long shelf tray that could hold more than just one of your plants.  Just remember to keep the tray full and change the water now and then to keep it fresh. 

 

Propagation

 

Now for the fun part.  If you like this plant it is really easy to get more.  Just wait until you have a stem that is over 5 inches long.  Then cut the stem with at least 3 sets of leaves on it.  Remove 2 sets and place the cutting in a pot covering the area where you removed the leaves.  You will get better and quicker results if you purchase some rooting hormone to dust on the cutting before you put it in the pot.  Rooting hormone is available at most garden center.

 

 

 I hope you enjoyed this posting on the little known Jewel Orchid.  Though the leaves are beautiful I cannot help to notice the beauty of the tiny little flower with a sunny yellow lip.  I could not help but put in this last photo because of how it looks like the opening buds look like they are lit from within. 

Please send me any questions about your houseplants via this site or email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com . Send me any photos of plants you want answers for.  I will publish them and help you get any sick plants back on the road to health.

Sincerely,
k.k.jones

The Care of a Phalaenopsis Orchid

 .

Light Exposure

The Phalaenopsis orchid does not need a lot of sun and will be quite happy in an eastern facing window.  If you plan to place it in a western or southern window, I would recommend that you place it behind a shear drape or blind.  A good way of knowing if the lighting is correct is the shade of the leaves.  Dark green leaves say that the plant is not getting enough sun.  Be careful when you start adding light because the leaves will burn if they get too much sun.

Planting Medium

Your Phalaenopsis will usually come in one of two mediums (stuff that is in the pot).  One is a combination of bark and charcoal.  The other is peat moss.  Both of these mediums will hold water for the orchid's use and allow the roots to be free of too much water.  It is important that the roots not sit in water for any length of time or the orchid will drown.  If you find that your medium has dried out sit the pot in warm water for about 20 minutes and then drain completely.

Watering

It is best to water all your orchids in the morning.  This is important especially for the Phalaenopsis because of its leaf formation.  The leaves come out from the center and create a cup that holds water when it is misted and it loves to be misted.  If the plant does not get a chance to dry off by nightfall it could be exposed to a fungus called crown rot.

Depending on the humidity of the plant, water your Phalaenopsis from twice a week to every day.  Water and let drain.  Check the medium for moisture and mist any exposed roots. 

More Information

There is so much I could tell you about the Phalaenopsis that I am just not sure where to stop.  So here is just a little more information to get you started.  If you have any questions I did not answer just ask.

Cinnamon is a known anti-fungal and have been sprinkled on plants to kill active fungus.  This should be done with care because if it is too thick on your plant it will interfere with the photosynthesis. 

I have learned a watering tip from an orchid grower when I received a new Phalaenopsis for my wedding.  This is simple and easy for all us busy gardeners.  One or two ice cubes in the pot will slowly melt and water the roots.

Mature Phalaenopsis Orchids can develop bloom spikes two to three times a year and blooms can last up to six months. As you learned last week, there is a possibility that an old spike will through off a new spike and bloom again.

Thanks for reading this blog.  I hope that it has been helpful.  Please give me some feedback.  Any questions can be added to this blog or sent to me at houseplantsos@gmail.com .

Sincerely,
k.k.jones

Orchids for Easter

The Dendrobium Orchid

Since Easter is right around the corner, I thought I should start a series on the favorite flower to give at this time of year, the Orchid.  It is hard to believe that only 20 to 30 years ago, Orchids were considered exotic plants that only connoisseurs with the big greenhouses grew and an Orchid corsage was once the ultimate in Easter finery.  We can thank the big box stores for making them available to you and me.  They were the first to feed the masses by adding them to their choice of houseplants.  Now you can even find them in grocery and drug stores at this time of year.

The Orchid family is the largest family of flowering plants in the world and can be found in all types of environments.  The Dendrobium, one Orchid that we are familiar with has 1200 species alone and we know only one.  This is actually a hybrid Dendrobium Phalaenopis.

How Does It Grow?

Since most of us get our first Dendrobium as a gift and in full bloom, let's start there.  I received the Dendrobium seen here as a Christmas gift.  As you can see it is in full bloom.  The blooms are all on one long stalk and come from the top of a thick stem-like growth called a pseudobulb.  It is now February so you can see that the flowers last a long time and can continue to bloom from the top with the right growing conditions.  Once the pseudobulb is finished blooming, it will rarely bloom again unless it is from the same stalk.  The pseudobulb that is next to the blooms in the picture is where the last blooms were and the small pseudobulbs at the bottom of the pot are from when the plant was much younger and stalks of flowers were not as well developed.

I am pointing out the smaller pseudobulbs because I want you to notice that they have no leaves on them.  The Dendrobium Orchid  is known to be an evergreen Orchid but some will drop their leaves leaving them to look like dead stalks in an empty pot.  Please do not throw them out.  They are not dead, just sleeping.  Leave them alone and when you start seeing new growth in the bottom of the pot, start watering and fertilizing.  The new pseudobulb will usually grow taller with each blooming so be prepared to stake it to keep it from fall down.

Caring For The  Dendrobium Orchid

Happily, the Dendrobium is very easy to care for.  Like most Orchids, it does not like wet feet (roots standing in water) so it will come in a pot that will drain easily.  If your Orchid came with a decorative outer pot, remember not to let water stand in it for more than 20 minutes.   If you like you can mist the whole plant every day but a good soaking once or twice a week will be enough as long as the planting material stays moist.  Dendrobiums are usually planted in a bark or moss which holds water for the plant until it is needed.  This allows the air to circulate around the roots but still gives the plant water.  The Dendrobium likes a sunny location but does not like to be directly in the sun.  I like to give mine a morning sun which becomes more shady as the day goes on.  A southern window will do well if you step it away from the window by about 2 feet or place it behind a sheer drape.  That is about it. Oh!  Don't forget to fertilize.  The best way is a small amount every time you water.  If you are watering with a mister, be sure to clean your plants leaves now and then to keep the salt of the fertilizer from doing damage.  It is best to use an Orchid fertilizer and my favorite is Schultz.  It has a formula of 19-31-17 which is great to promote blooms.  For general healthy plants forgo the bloom for a good basic formula which again I favor Schultz with a formula of 10-15-10. Schultz Fertilizer Here is a link to make it easy to fine.

Thanks for spending some time with me.  Please keep your questions coming.  You can post on this site or email me at joneskathee@gmail.com .  If you would like me to send you a copy of any new postings right to your email box, just drop me a line and I will add you to my mailing list.

Yours until next time,
k.k.jones

 

 

So what are you going to do with your Poinsettia now?

Christmas is over and that beautiful plant on the dining room table is starting to get a little ragged.  There still are a lot of red leaves on it but some of the branches have broken off and the lower leaves are curled or gone.  It really is not what you want on the table any more.  So what are your options?  

The choice most people make is to throw it out and buy another one next year.  That would be easiest but if you wanted to do that you would not be reading this posting. So let's continue to the next option.

The next option is to save the plant.  I have found that to do this it is best to put it the plant to sleep.  This means to stop the watering and trim the plant to about 4 or 5 inches tall.   This will encourage the plant to remain compact.  The larger the plant the taller the stalks should be after trimming.  There should be no leaves left on it. Now you can set it somewhere safe. Check on it from time to time and when you start to see green leaf buds you will need to start watering it again and giving it sunshine.  Now just let it grow.  Remember to fertilize.  Keep it compact during the growing season.   By October stop trimming so that the Poinsettia can start setting it's bloom.

The third option is to just let it grow.  I have planted Poinsettias in the garden once the danger of frost is over and they have grown quite large.  It makes a beautiful green annual that will be as big as a small bush in no time.  Now what if you want to keep it as a houseplant?  The only reason that you would want to do that is because you want to try and get it to bloom again. 

How to make a Poinsettia to Bloom

The Poinsettia blooms through photoperiodism which means it is the amount of light and dark that triggers the bloom.  It not only wants full sun for 10 hours and it also needs full darkness for 10 hours.  That is why the Poinsettia blooms in the winter.  If you want your poinsettia to bloom then you will have to recreate nature.  A greenhouse is the easiest route.  Next location is a unused room that faces south and has no streetlight out side the window.  If these options are not open to you, here is the last hope.  Every night when you come home from work, place your plant in the hall closet.  In the morning when you open the closet to take out your coat and head for work, put your plant in the window.  Keep this up for about 7 weeks.  You plant may not actually bloom, but you should get you red leaves and that is an accomplishment few can brag about.

This is my last Christmas posting.  I have not seen any pictures from you so I am again encouraging you to send me your pictures.  I will post them along with any advice you would like concerning the care of plants.  Please contact me through this blog or email me at joneskathee@gmail.com .

Have you seen this?

The Dwarf Schefflera (Schefflera arboricola) has long been one of my favorite plants for indoor gardening.  It is easy to grow and it is of a good size for a floor plant.  So you can understand that I am now twice as pleased now that I have moved south and can also use it in my outdoor garden. But that is not why I have chosen to write about the Schefflera today. 

The reason is the picture that I took on my cell phone while heading into a local wholesale store.  I was so excited that I kept taking pictures to show you.  This picture shows a variegated bush with berries on it.  This is the first time I have ever seen them.  Look at the star that is shaped by the berry stalks. The berry stalks slowly turn to a rainbow of reds and oranges as they ripen. What a great show for the post Christmas season.   I just love it.  This is something that indoor gardeners do not get a chance to see very often.

Care and general information

The Dwarf Schefflera comes in both solid green and variegated varieties. The name is deceiving as this plant can grow up to 10 feet in height and will be very wide.  It likes sunny locations and can even be moved into a dappled sun outdoors during the summer (that is if it isn't too big.) They should not be exposed to temperatures lower than 60 degrees or you may get burn marks on the leaves.  Though the Schefflera prefers to be kept on the moist side, be sure not to over water it.  A good soaking once a week during the growing season should be all it needs. This plant is one of those who love a good misting if you find that it is drying out too quickly. 

Though the Schefflera is very disease resistant, you need to be wary of bug infestation.  Generally healthy plants are not bothered by bugs so be sure to fertilize regularly.   The Dwarf Schefflera is a heavy feeder during the growing season and some gardeners recommend doubling up on the fertilizer.  I am not too sure about that because over fertilizing is just a bad as not fertilizing.  I would love to hear comments about this from any reader who has had exceptional results with reguards to this.

Well I guess that is all for today.   I did find a picture of the blossom at Dave's Garden if you would like to see it.  Please add your comments to this page if you have any more information that other readers might need.  If you have your own photo of the blossom, please send it to me and I will publish it on this blog. 

You can reach me through the blog or email me at joneskathee@gmail.com.     

My Favorite Christmas Plant

The Cyclamen, my favorite Christmas Plant

Here is a beautiful flower which I think is under appreciated.  With medium light and regular fertilizing you can have vibrant non-stop flowers all winter long.  The cyclamen is a large  family of plants and some of them can also be planted outside in some of the warmer frost zones.  But you are looking for a plant that looks like the one pictured here. The Cyclamen persicum is sometimes called a florist cyclamen and are definitely happier in you house.

It will bloom continuously but will be happier is it is given a 2 or 3 month dormant period.  We will talk about that later in the care section. 

First, I have not finished spouting the glory of these wondrous flowers.  They come in four colors that I know of.  Each color is effervescent in white, light pink, fuchsia and red.  I have seen them in two sizes.  One is small enough to fit into a large teacup and the other is a little bit bigger with a height of only 8 inches tall.  The sweet scented flowers are displayed above a crown of variegated leaves on erect stems, creating a beautiful bouquet of 3/4 inch flowers.  I have not seen many for sale since I moved to the south and I was pleased to see it on display recently.  If you have a chance to pick a cyclamen up, do it.

Now for the care

When you bring your cyclamen home from the store, it should be in full bloom.  To keep it that way you will want to keep it lightly watered.  Over watering may damage the tuber.  Try not to water the crown of the plant which could also cause rot.  Fertilize once a month with a formula that is higher in phosphorous.  This is the middle number in the list of numbers found on all fertilizer containers.

During the cyclamen's bloom time it will want bright, indirect sunlight.  That side table is perfect and it will love the artificial light too.  When it goes dormant, a dark cool location is preferable.  I use to keep mine next to an open basement window.

Keep the plant neat by cutting off any yellowing leaves and dead flowers.  I have found that if you pull them off, the cyclamen is one plant that will get upset.  The more you pull off; the more you will get. 

When you start to see a decline in your cyclamen, it is time to give it a rest.  Let the plant dry out and do not water for two or three months. Gently remove dead flowers and stems and replant into new potting medium.  Like most tubers, it is best to keep the very top above the soil.  When you see new sprouts, you can start watering again.   And it all begins again.