A Rabbit's Foot for Luck

Well it has been a while since I wrote and I apologize.  Summer is here and I have been out in the garden.  By now most of you have joined me and unless you are one of the many who only garden indoors, you probably did not even miss me.

I have a lot of things I have been gathering and lots pictures to help show you what I want you to know. I am starting today with a favorite of mine.  That is the Rabbit's Foot Fern (Davallia).

The Davallia fern is definitely not collected for its foliage but its growing habits makes it a "must have" for any person who wants something unusual.  The thing that makes it unique is that it would prefer not to have a pot and will continue to grow wrapping around itself or any other structure that will give it support.  The one above is in a wire basket with a little moss and bark chips to help keep it from drying out. Notice how  each rhizome looks like a little furry foot.  This is where this family gets it's name as footed ferns. 

The "fur" is small root hairs that help to hold water and allows this fern to tolerate lower humidity that most other ferns.  The one pictured is a Davallia fejeenisis (Rabbit's Foot Fern) which is the one that is the most common  in the US and can be bought in a small size at most garden centers. Other rather easy Davallia's are the canariensis, the pyxidata and the solida. Some of their common names are Hare's Foot, and Squirrel's Foot Fern. There are more Davallias that are more difficult and some that are even deciduous.  This means that they will lose their leaves in the winter and look like a large ball of roots. I would try to stay away from them if you are a beginner.

Water regularly in the summer when it is growing and then slow down in the winter when it goes into a dormant phase.  If your fern is in a basket with little or no medium, regularly may mean that you will need to mist a couple of times a week.  

When it is time to repot there are a few noteworthy rules to follow.  First and for-most: do not bury any root that has already exposed itself to the air. This is now an air root and will rot if buried.  Second: the potting medium should be course like you would use for an epiphyte orchid.  This allows the furry rhizomes to develop better.  Fertilizer is light and you can use a slow release or a half strength solution of a liquid formula.  

Pests to watch for are aphids, mealy bugs, scale and thrip. A good hosing or indoors a trip to the showers should take care of most infestations.

If you would like to know more about this fascinating plant check out  the Fern Society of South Australia, Davallia Study Group . Though I have owned Davallias over the years there is always something new to learn.  I thought it amazing that we usually buy our new plant in a plastic pot and this species does not like them.  Keep to the more porous pots.  If you cannot do a hanging basket because of the mess that is sometimes associated with it then use a clay pot.  

Well, that is all for today.  I hope this was worth the wait.  I promise that I will go back to writing more often.

Please direct any questions or comments to me in the comment area of this post or email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com.

Sincerely,

k.k.jones 

The Humble Begonia

From the Website of
The American Begonia Society

You know the cute little flowers that your grandmother put in her garden as an annual?  That is the Humble Begonia.  But it really is not as humble as you would think.  This little Begonia is part of a genus that has 1500 species and is the sixth-largest angiosperm genus. Not that you really wanted to know that but I thought it highlight the importance of this little "disposable" plant.  It is from the subtropics much like the Gardenias that we spoke about last time.  It is commonly called a Wax Begonia though its proper name is a Semperfloren.

Why Talk About An Annual In Houseplants?

Because it is it did not start out as a garden annual.  The Semperfloren is a shrub which is one of four divisions of Begonias. In areas where there is no danger of frost the Wax Begonia will continue to grow year round.  Many will also do very well indoors as a ever-blooming houseplant.   These little plants and other Begonia's like the Angel Wing Begonia have been staples in the English Conservatories and Greenhouses for years.  In fact there has been a National Begonia Society in the UK since 1945.  The Angel Wing Begonia is the closest in looks but it usually is collected for its beautiful foliage.  If you look at my Board on Pinterest I have shown two different examples of the beautiful Angel Wing.  Below you will see a Begonia that has the waxy look of a Semperfloren but the leaf shape more angel like.  I do believe that this is a Wax Begonia because of the size of the flowers.

So How Do You Take Care Of Your Begonia?

Taken at Rockledge Gardens, Rockledge, Florida

The best time to buy a Begonia is the Spring for obvious reason.  You can let them summer outside but I would not put them in bright sun or in the ground.  The reason for this is because when you bring them inside it will take longer for your plant to acclimate itself to its new home.  If you have a greenhouse window your Begonia will be very happy there.  Southern windows make nice homes, as well as a Western or Eastern. Since you can buy Semperfloren in six packs go ahead and try different locations throughout your home.  If your plant is getting too much sun, It will have burn marks on its leaves and if there is not enough sun, then it will get tall and lanky with leaves being sparse.

Flower of a Rhizomatous  Begonia
which we will talk about another time

Now for watering. 

Like many of the plants we have spoken about in this blog, the Begonia does not like wet feet.  In other words, too much water is a bad thing.  The best way to water is to place it on top of a saucer like you did your Gardenia. Water from above and let the excess fill the sauce below.  Make sure that the pot stays above the waterline.  A larger saucer will create a micro climate for humidity that most Begonias like.  Do not over water.

One last thing. 

 Begonias like to be a little pot bound.  If you place them in too large of a container they may die. If your plant is staying wet too long and looking peaked, then this might be the problem. Repot into a container that is the same size as the root ball after you have removed all the wet soil.  Use a good soil-less potting mixture for the best results. 

Well that is all for today.  Next time I will tell you about the Rhizomatous Begonia which is grown more for its beautiful leaves rather than its flowers.  The flowers are small and almost inconsequential as you can see if you again go to my Board on Pinterest .  I have added one more link for you to use as I have found it very useful Brad's Begonia World . Until next time I hope that this blog give you a home greener than before.

Please email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com or add your comments below.  If you need special help you can contact me through Fiverr where we can set up a consultation through Skype or a phone conversation.   

k.k.jones

The Gardenias Are In Bloom

  

You will see them popping up in garden centers and florists everywhere, making them a perfect gift for Mom on her special day.  If you received a bush for Mother's Day or are planning to purchase one for yourself there are a couple of things you should know.

Blossoms and a beautiful new bud

The Gardenia is a genus consisting of 142 species ranging in size from 2 to 49 feet.  The one you probably own is a Gardenia jasminoides which is commonly cultivated for a houseplant because they will only grow to 18 inches indoors.  This genus originates in tropical and subtropical regions of the world making it not hardy as an outside plant in the north.  Some people (including my sweet mother) love the flower so much that they plant larger bushes in pots for their patio.  If you want to try this, remember that you will have to find a home for them during the winter.  I did recently come across an advertisement for a new Frost Proof Gardenia that says that it is hardy even in the Midwest.  I am not endorsing it but I have included a link to Fast-Growing-Trees.com for anyone who wants to check it out.

Now back to your Gardenia

When you got your beautiful new bush it was probably covered with blossoms and lots of promising buds.  Now only a week later the buds have started to fall off.  Do not panic.  It is not unusual for a plant to go through a trauma when it is moved to a new home.  I will not lie to you.  Gardenias are not the easiest plant to keep in the house.  The reason for this is that being a tropical native it likes lots of humidity.  The trick is to give your plant enough humidity and still be able to live in your house.  The most labor intensive way of doing this is to mist the whole plant at least two times a day.  I don't know about you but I do not have the time for that.  And the flowers will not last as long if they get wet.
Instead set up a micro climate.  This can be done in two ways.  One you can get a table top greenhouse like the one shown on Gardenista. These tend to be small so be sure of their dimensions before you purchase.  The easiest option is to find a leak proof saucer that is larger than the circumference of your plant.  Fill it with stones so that your plant will sit above the water you will be adding to the saucer.  As the water evaporates the plant will be encased with the humidity.   This should take care of the humidity problem.

What else you should know

Gardenias like a lot of sun. The aphid that we spoke of last time find them very tasty. Spider mites should not be a problem only if you pay attention to the humidity.  Your Gardenia likes an acidic soil so you can share your morning coffee with it if you don't use cream.  In fact, your plant would love it if you give it some coffee grounds now and then.  

The Gardenia Bud

Well, I think that should give you enough information for today.  I would love to see your Gardenia.  Please send me a photo at houseplantsos@gmail.com.  Also, if you have a plant problem you need help with you can email me or post it right here.  Thanks for joining me today.

Sincerely,
k.k.jones

Cleaning, Debugging and Fungus

Plants like this Draceana need to have the
whole leaf removed back to the trunk.

Summer is around the corner and when you start the deep cleaning of Spring you should not forget your plants.  Outside you are pruning dead branches and clean beds.  Inside you should be doing the same.  Plants need to be washed down, trimmed, re potted and checked over for infestation or disease. 

Start With Washing 

Most plants can be washed down with mild soapy water using dish detergent or Ivory Snow Laundry Detergent. Be sure to wash both the top and especially the bottom of each leaf.  The dust on the top effects the plants ability to use the sunlight and the bottom is where the plant breaths. Also, the bottom of the leaves are where bugs will usually lay their eggs.  Remove any dead leaves. Plants that have no leaf stems such as the Draceana marginata or the Draceana fragrans (corn plant pictured in a previous blog) should have the complete leaf removed back to the main trunk. This step is important because the crevices make great hiding places for bugs. Furry plants like African Violets can be turned upside-down and and gently swished in a bath of soapy water.  Before doing this, be sure to brush off any heavy dirt with a soft clean paintbrush and water to keep planting medium intact.  Light airy medium may have to be covered.  (You are only placing the upper plant in the water, no the whole pot.)  Place wet plant in an area that has a gentle breeze to help dry the leaves.  Do not put in the sun because the trapped water on the leaves will act as a magnifying glass and burn them.



What to Look For

This is the horror we sometimes find on our houseplants. There are two 

infestations here.  One is the Aphid  and the other is white fly.  This is

a beautiful Bougainvillea that has  been attacked.  Both of these bugs 

love tender new growth so the first thing to do is to cut off the new 

growth.  Be sure too dispose of all infested cuttings into a bag before

any of the bugs escape to new branches.

 

Long winters with dry heat are notorious causes of disease and infestation so as you are washing look for some of these tell tale signs.  Small black or grey spots may be the beginning of scale.  White cotton looking spots are mealy bugs.  Small hard to see webs very near the stem joints are spider mite webs.  Little green bugs that cover new growth and blossom buds are usually aphids.  I have included an image link for you to check out to see some pictures of common houseplant bugs .  From there you can link into different areas to learn more about what you may be encountering

Combating Infestation

Scale found on a Bromeliad.  This is very

hard to deal with as the scale will hide in 

all the little crevasses. This will take 

great diligence to eradicate it. It is 

probably best to find a clean pup (small 

growth on the side) that is not yet

affected and throw out the rest.  

The plants that are most affected by the infestation should be quarantined from the others and watched more closely.  Chemicals in the home should not be your first choice of action and many of these can bugs can be eliminated with a simple soap and water bath when caught early.   If you have scale, you may need to use your nail or a soft nylon brush to remove the outer shell encasing the bug.  Strong sprays of water will help knock the aphids off the infested plant.  (Be sure to do this over the sink or outside so that the aphids will not land on another plant.)  Spider mites hate moist conditions so after washing be sure to mist you plant every day.  Though simple soap and water will take care of most problems it should be noted that it is not a once and done situation.  You will need to take special care to watch for continued problems.  There are mild insecticides available at you local garden center for quicker results or if you have an infestation you cannot handle.  Please be sure to read the label on how to use and and take the precautions seriously before you use them. If you have found an infestation of one kind of bug you should look for more.  It just makes sense that if conditions are right for one bug it may be just right for another. 

This is scale on a Jade Plant.  The

fleshy leaves make it much harder to

spot.  The best treatment is a

systemic pesticide.

Disease

I don't have a lot to say about disease.  Many times it is caused by one of three things.  First and foremost is air flow.  Just like you, if plant does not get fresh air it will become more susceptible to virus and fungus.  This could be easily rectified by make sure you do not create the second problem which is over crowding.  Plants that are too close together will not get the circulation they need and also, become more prone to coming down with the same disease as their neighbors.  Lastly, fungus can be caused by poor watering practices.  Crown rot is very common in houseplants and this is caused by water sitting in the crown of the plant for too long. (The crown is the top of the plant were leaves emerge such as the African Violet.)  To help combat this, people are told to water plants that are prone to crown rot from the bottom and it works quite well.  Another way to combat disease from watering is to be sure that you water during the day so the plant has time to dry its leaves before nightfall.  Here again is the need for good circulation and no overcrowding.  You can see that these three causes of disease are all intertwined.  Break one rule and the whole system breaks.  If you do find yourself with fungus, a simple home remedy that I learned from my orchid people is cinnamon.  Cinnamon has fungicide properties but be sure that you do not use too much and smother your plant.  Safe fungicides are also available at your neighborhood garden center for your convenience.

That is all for today,  Hope this posting was helpful.  If you have any questions, be sure to add a comments or email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com . Sign up for my mailing list and you can easily receive each new posting.

k.k.jones

Beautiful Foliage

Alocasia Amizonica  (African Mask)

I thought it would be a good idea to sway away from the flowering plants for a bit and maybe talk about plants that are bought for their beautiful foliage.  This is one of my favorites.  The Amizonica is one of a number of hybrids know for its marked foliage and it is easy to see why.  You can find it in many garden centers in sizes starting as small as a 6 inch pot.  The largest pot I have seen is a 10 inch.  They can get tall so be sure that you have a good spot to put yours. 

The Wikipedia definition of Alocasia is as follows:

Alocasia is a genus of broad-leaved rhizomatous or tuberous perennials from the family Araceae. There are 79 species [1] native to tropical and subtropical Asia to Eastern Australia, and widely cultivated elsewhere.

First thing you should notice in this definition is that this family is tropical.  This means that this plant likes warm temperatures.  You should generally not subject it to temperatures lower than 64 degrees.  Keep in mind that it will also not do well indoors next to the air conditioner outflow. If it is subjected to lower temperatures it will go into dormant conditions just like any other tuber.  I know that my plant sat on my desk for 2 years and was very happy until I go a promotion and my new desk was under the air conditioner.  My poor baby was sick and scrawny in less than 2 months.  It still has not recovered to its full beauty though it now has plenty of warm sun. 

Which brings me to my next discussion, light.  Sitting on the top of my desk, my plant reached for the florescent lights and grew a height of 4 feet.  Though mine did quite well under the artificial light, most growers will tell you to give your Amizonica plenty of sun.  With leaves about a foot wide and 3 feet long, it will make a good floor plant as long as it is in a sunny location.  Artificial light used to supplement sunlight should be no farther away than 2 feet.

The leaves emerge from the tuber on a single stem which means that there is no lower foliage.  This would make it a good candidate for a pairing between it and a low growing plant.  You should choose a plant that will like a medium or low light because it will be farther away from the light and shaded by the larger Amizonica.  For a pleasing combination, also choose a solid color leaf like an ivy. Or as smaller leaf like a pothos.  (I will post pictures of these plants on my pinterest so that you know what I mean. Look for Kathee Kit  Jones and the board of the same name.)


Last but not least, I have included a picture of the flower for you flower buffs.  It is not the prettiest of flowers but when you see one you know you are doing something right. I found this photo at GardenWeb and if you click on the words you can see more.

 

General Care Abbreviated

Needs good light
Do not let it get chilled
Fertilize once a month
Soil should be damp but not wet
When it starts to go dormant - stop watering


Thanks for following my blog.  If you have any questions or comments please add them to the bottom of this posting or email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com  I would love to hear from you.

Sincerely,
k.k.jones

 

 

Happy Spring

 

Lilies, Hyacinths, and Tulips 

Spring Bulbs are showing up in the stores in full bloom.  They are beautiful and fill our homes with promise of the summer months to come.  With Easter coming so early, the lilies, hyacinths and tulips are the ones we will see the most of and  I thought we should talk briefly about these and how to care for them.

Lilies 

The lily is a tribe of plants called Lilium.  It has 2 large families called Oriental and Asia.  The lily that I have pictured here is called a Stargazer Lily and has become very popular over the years.  It is a  hybrid Lilium Oriental and is known for it's fragrant smell.  This lily usually blooms in the mid to late summer so if you have received one as a gift, there may be a possibility that you can get it to bloom again in the fall.

First you will have to let the plant complete the blooming. This plant wants full sun and will need to be put there to help feed the bulb.  With fertilizer, the blub may continue to bloom for a long time.  When it starts to look bad, stop watering and force the bulb into dormancy.  We have spoken before about how a bulb needs to rest so you know what to do.  If this is the first time you are reading my blog, cut off the faded greens and let the bulb rest in a shady area.

You can make your bulb bloom again inside but if you have a garden go ahead and plant it outside.  Lilies are hardy from zone 5 to zone 9.

Hyacinths 

The other heavy scented flower that you will see at this time of year is the hyacinth.  It's Latin name is Hyacinthum but you will rarely see this used.  It is a true spring bloomer and is easy to start from bulbs that you will buy in fall. 

If you get a hyacinth as a gift, give it lots of sun and do not over water it.  Plants that are over watered may collapse from the weight of their flowers. 

I have read that you cannot get a hyacinth bulb to bloom again but I have seen them bloom many times when planted in the garden.  This probably because they are fertilized when they are in the garden.  If you want to try to get a hyacinth blub to rebloom you will have to be sure that you fertilize.  The best time to do this is after the bloom and before the greens fade.  After they fade you can cut off the greens and repot in fresh soil.  The blub should be planted 3x the size deep and in soil that has good drainage.  Keep in a cool place and do not water until you see new growth. 

Tulips

Of all the flowers that you may receive as a gift this is one of the few that I will tell you to enjoy and then forget about it.  A tulip will continue to grow as it ages and so if you are picking you own tulips choose one with short stems.  Most of the tulips you will buy in bloom will have been forced. and it b is not one that you can easily rebloom after it has been forced.  If you want to keep the tulip bulbs you can find a place in your garden where they can regenerate unnoticed.  It will take two to three years before you see blossoms again.

 
I hope that this posting has answered any questions you may have.  If you have more, please post it here or email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com . I would love to hear from you.

Sincerely,
kkjones

The Four Leaf Clover

 

The Luck of the Irish Be Yours

In honor of St Patrick, I thought I would talk about the extra special four leaf clover.  Yes, there actually is one.  It is a very uncommon variation of the common Trifolium repens which is a white clover.  The clover is part of a large species family that includes peas and other eatables.  Thought of as a nuisance in lawns, many of hours have been spent by children and adults alike looking for that elusive fourth leaf which is a symbol of good luck.

For those of you who do not know who St Patrick was, he is the person credited for bringing Christianity to Ireland and driving all the snakes out of the Isles. His holy day is March 17th and is celebrated by millions.  St Patrick's Shamrock is the 3 leaf as he used it to teach the Christian Trinity throughout Ireland.  But I get off the track.

The Shamrock Plant.

So what is that plant you are seeing in stores at this time of year?  This is called an Oxalis regnellii.  Its common name is Woodsorrel or False Shamrock Plant and it is a beautiful little plant.  Like the clover it is also eatable.  The Oxalis Regnellii does come in a four leaf variety as I picture below. I found it posted in a number of places on the web but cannot find another name for it.  If anyone knows the name please pass it on to me and my readers.

So now that you know what it is, let's talk about how to take care of it.

The Care and Feeding 

The Oxalis is grown from a bulb.  Knowing this you will know that the bulb will go through dormant periods so don't get upset if it starts looking peaked. 

Water the Oxalis sparingly.  Do not let it dry out as this will throw it into dormancy more quickly.  Do not over water or it will drown.  A pot and dish combination may be the best container for the Oxalis.  Feed it every 2 to 3 weeks with a fertilizer of 10-10-10.

Though the Oxalis likes a sunny window it does not like to be hot.   It does not tolerate temperatures over 75 degrees and would really like a lower temperature in the evening hours.  With this in mind you might want to keep your plant in a medium light location.

If your plant begins to go into a dormant period (usually in the heat of summer), stop watering.   Some people will force it into dormancy by cutting the whole plant down.  The older the plant the less it will need to go into dormancy.  While it is dormant let it rest in lower light and watch for new shoots.  When it is ready, you will see the shoots and you should then start the watering and feeding again.

I hope you find this posting helpful.  I try to use my own photography in this blog but today I had to rely on others. Thank you to them.

I hope that this posting has answered any questions you may have.  If you have more, please post it here or email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com . I would love to hear from you.

kkjones

What is a Jewel Orchid?

 

A Beautiful Houseplant

Here is an orchid that is really worth looking at for a beginner indoor gardener.  It is called a Ludisia discolor and is one of the only orchids that is grown for the foliage and not its small white flower.





Flower is smaller than a dime

This orchid is so easy to grow that each grower has their own opinion on what kind of potting medium to grow it in. The Jewel Orchid is not like the last few orchids that we have spoken about.  It does not grow in trees; it grows on the ground.  So you need something a little heavier but still not just dirt.  My Jewel is in a good potting soil mix.  A mix means that there is organic material in the bag to help hold moisture but still allows air pockets for the plant to drain.  Some growers will tell you to create a mix of 1/3 soil, 1/3 peat and 1/3 bark.  There are also commercial potting mixtures available for just terrestrial orchids.
 





From Indonesia and Burma 

 

The Jewel Orchid is from the jungles of Indonesia and Burma so it likes a warm, humid environment.  Average day temperatures should be between 70 and 80 degrees.  I have read that night temperatures can go as low as 10 degrees but I don't think I want to try it. 

 

My Jewel Orchid likes a semi sunny location which helps to keep it warm.  It summers in a semi shady patio which is like a sunny window.  You should probably place your orchid in an eastern  window. 

 

Humidity

 

If you are not able to mist your Jewel Orchid twice a day then you should go with a humidity tray.  This is a tray that you put under your plant that is full of stones.  The tray should be larger than the pot that holds your orchid and has enough stones in it so that your orchid will not get wet when you fill the tray with water.  Water will evaporate and create a humid environment for any plant sitting on the tray.  This method works well with most orchids and you might want to consider a long shelf tray that could hold more than just one of your plants.  Just remember to keep the tray full and change the water now and then to keep it fresh. 

 

Propagation

 

Now for the fun part.  If you like this plant it is really easy to get more.  Just wait until you have a stem that is over 5 inches long.  Then cut the stem with at least 3 sets of leaves on it.  Remove 2 sets and place the cutting in a pot covering the area where you removed the leaves.  You will get better and quicker results if you purchase some rooting hormone to dust on the cutting before you put it in the pot.  Rooting hormone is available at most garden center.

 

 

 I hope you enjoyed this posting on the little known Jewel Orchid.  Though the leaves are beautiful I cannot help to notice the beauty of the tiny little flower with a sunny yellow lip.  I could not help but put in this last photo because of how it looks like the opening buds look like they are lit from within. 

Please send me any questions about your houseplants via this site or email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com . Send me any photos of plants you want answers for.  I will publish them and help you get any sick plants back on the road to health.

Sincerely,
k.k.jones

The Care of a Phalaenopsis Orchid

 .

Light Exposure

The Phalaenopsis orchid does not need a lot of sun and will be quite happy in an eastern facing window.  If you plan to place it in a western or southern window, I would recommend that you place it behind a shear drape or blind.  A good way of knowing if the lighting is correct is the shade of the leaves.  Dark green leaves say that the plant is not getting enough sun.  Be careful when you start adding light because the leaves will burn if they get too much sun.

Planting Medium

Your Phalaenopsis will usually come in one of two mediums (stuff that is in the pot).  One is a combination of bark and charcoal.  The other is peat moss.  Both of these mediums will hold water for the orchid's use and allow the roots to be free of too much water.  It is important that the roots not sit in water for any length of time or the orchid will drown.  If you find that your medium has dried out sit the pot in warm water for about 20 minutes and then drain completely.

Watering

It is best to water all your orchids in the morning.  This is important especially for the Phalaenopsis because of its leaf formation.  The leaves come out from the center and create a cup that holds water when it is misted and it loves to be misted.  If the plant does not get a chance to dry off by nightfall it could be exposed to a fungus called crown rot.

Depending on the humidity of the plant, water your Phalaenopsis from twice a week to every day.  Water and let drain.  Check the medium for moisture and mist any exposed roots. 

More Information

There is so much I could tell you about the Phalaenopsis that I am just not sure where to stop.  So here is just a little more information to get you started.  If you have any questions I did not answer just ask.

Cinnamon is a known anti-fungal and have been sprinkled on plants to kill active fungus.  This should be done with care because if it is too thick on your plant it will interfere with the photosynthesis. 

I have learned a watering tip from an orchid grower when I received a new Phalaenopsis for my wedding.  This is simple and easy for all us busy gardeners.  One or two ice cubes in the pot will slowly melt and water the roots.

Mature Phalaenopsis Orchids can develop bloom spikes two to three times a year and blooms can last up to six months. As you learned last week, there is a possibility that an old spike will through off a new spike and bloom again.

Thanks for reading this blog.  I hope that it has been helpful.  Please give me some feedback.  Any questions can be added to this blog or sent to me at houseplantsos@gmail.com .

Sincerely,
k.k.jones

The Plant That Called Me A Liar

 I have always felt that no matter what I tell you about plants there will be one stubborn plant that will call me a liar.  If I tell you it likes the sun, your plant will tell you it likes only partial sun.  If I tell you that a plant should do one thing, it will do the opposite.  But I can explain that.  Plants are living, breathing entities.  Each plant is a little different.  Each has its own "personality".

Here is my newest independent thinker.  This is a Phalaenopsis Orchid.  For those of you who do not know what a Phalaenopsis is I have added a picture of the bloom so you will recognise it.  The plant is usually made up of large leaves near the pot and then flowers form on a long spike towering over them. After the blossoms fall I have always been taught to leave the long empty stalk on the plant until it grows brown because the green stalk is full of nutrients that the plant will continue to use for the next blooming.  Sometimes, though I have not seen it very often the stalk will send off a side stalk and will bloom again.  Usually, it just sits there looking ugly.  So what the heck, I cut it off and stuck it in the dirt of a large plant to see what would happen.

Well, I did do a little more than that.  I started with three stalks.  Cutting them just under a flower node, I dusted them with rooting hormone and then I stuck them in the dirt.  I did not expect anything.  I watched two of the stalks turn brown and waited for the third to follow suit.  You can imagine my delight when it did not turn brown but developed buds.   Phalaenopsis are not suppose to like dirt.  They like their roots to be able to breath in moss or bark or coconut fiber.  I am not sure how this will turn out.  It is not wise to disturb the roots of a flowering plant so I cannot tell you what is happening down there yet. But I will keep you posted.

Next week I will tell you about the care and feeding of the Phalaenopsis Orchid so stay tuned.  I hopefully will have an update on my buds. 

Please tell me about your plant and its unusual behaviour.  Send me photos that I can post here along with your story.  You can post them yourself on this blog or email me at joneskathee@gmail.com

Until next time,
k.k.jones

Orchids for Easter

The Dendrobium Orchid

Since Easter is right around the corner, I thought I should start a series on the favorite flower to give at this time of year, the Orchid.  It is hard to believe that only 20 to 30 years ago, Orchids were considered exotic plants that only connoisseurs with the big greenhouses grew and an Orchid corsage was once the ultimate in Easter finery.  We can thank the big box stores for making them available to you and me.  They were the first to feed the masses by adding them to their choice of houseplants.  Now you can even find them in grocery and drug stores at this time of year.

The Orchid family is the largest family of flowering plants in the world and can be found in all types of environments.  The Dendrobium, one Orchid that we are familiar with has 1200 species alone and we know only one.  This is actually a hybrid Dendrobium Phalaenopis.

How Does It Grow?

Since most of us get our first Dendrobium as a gift and in full bloom, let's start there.  I received the Dendrobium seen here as a Christmas gift.  As you can see it is in full bloom.  The blooms are all on one long stalk and come from the top of a thick stem-like growth called a pseudobulb.  It is now February so you can see that the flowers last a long time and can continue to bloom from the top with the right growing conditions.  Once the pseudobulb is finished blooming, it will rarely bloom again unless it is from the same stalk.  The pseudobulb that is next to the blooms in the picture is where the last blooms were and the small pseudobulbs at the bottom of the pot are from when the plant was much younger and stalks of flowers were not as well developed.

I am pointing out the smaller pseudobulbs because I want you to notice that they have no leaves on them.  The Dendrobium Orchid  is known to be an evergreen Orchid but some will drop their leaves leaving them to look like dead stalks in an empty pot.  Please do not throw them out.  They are not dead, just sleeping.  Leave them alone and when you start seeing new growth in the bottom of the pot, start watering and fertilizing.  The new pseudobulb will usually grow taller with each blooming so be prepared to stake it to keep it from fall down.

Caring For The  Dendrobium Orchid

Happily, the Dendrobium is very easy to care for.  Like most Orchids, it does not like wet feet (roots standing in water) so it will come in a pot that will drain easily.  If your Orchid came with a decorative outer pot, remember not to let water stand in it for more than 20 minutes.   If you like you can mist the whole plant every day but a good soaking once or twice a week will be enough as long as the planting material stays moist.  Dendrobiums are usually planted in a bark or moss which holds water for the plant until it is needed.  This allows the air to circulate around the roots but still gives the plant water.  The Dendrobium likes a sunny location but does not like to be directly in the sun.  I like to give mine a morning sun which becomes more shady as the day goes on.  A southern window will do well if you step it away from the window by about 2 feet or place it behind a sheer drape.  That is about it. Oh!  Don't forget to fertilize.  The best way is a small amount every time you water.  If you are watering with a mister, be sure to clean your plants leaves now and then to keep the salt of the fertilizer from doing damage.  It is best to use an Orchid fertilizer and my favorite is Schultz.  It has a formula of 19-31-17 which is great to promote blooms.  For general healthy plants forgo the bloom for a good basic formula which again I favor Schultz with a formula of 10-15-10. Schultz Fertilizer Here is a link to make it easy to fine.

Thanks for spending some time with me.  Please keep your questions coming.  You can post on this site or email me at joneskathee@gmail.com .  If you would like me to send you a copy of any new postings right to your email box, just drop me a line and I will add you to my mailing list.

Yours until next time,
k.k.jones

 

 

Is it Poisonous?

One of my readers sent me this question that has me talking about our Poinsettia plant again and I thought that this would be a good time to talk about the toxicity of houseplants.

The Poinsettia

First, the Poinsettia has been long rumored to be poisonous. The story of a poisoning of a child in 1919 after ingesting a few leaves cannot be confirmed as there is no medical record of the incident. The truth is that many tests have been on rats and rabbits that were feed large amounts of this plant with no effect.  However, the milky sap has been know to be an skin irritant and there are toxins in the plant that may have an adverse effect on some small children and pets. The death of a small dog in Switzerland was attributed to eating Poinsettia leaves is one isolated occurrence.

The Aracae Family

The most common Dieffenbachia

Dieffenbachia

The most dangerous houseplant in my opinion is the Dieffenbachia.  The sap of the plant when it comes in contact with moist parts of the body will cause immediate swelling with redness and stabbing pain.  The good thing about this is that if leaf is chewed, the swelling will hopefully prevent swallowing.  The bad part is that that the swelling can last several days with a lot of drooling.  In severe cases there will be a loss of speech - hence its name which translates to Dumb Cane. 


The Dieffenbachia is favored for its large patterened leaf.  The oldest one I know is the one pictured above.  I remember my mother had one in her livingroom when I was growing up.  It finally fell over when it reached a heighth of 8 feet and the ceiling of the room was only 71/2 feet.  Since then there have been many different leaf patterns offerings on the market.  I have two of them pictured here.
 



More plants in the Araceae family to watch are the Anthurium and Philodendron.  The Anthurium is loved for its simple bloom that comes in a variety of reds, pinks and whites.  A larger variety also has a purple blossom.  It has not had any case of serious poisoning reported.  The Philodendron which is a large genus has been responsible for skin complaints.  Care should be used around animals as there was a report written in 1961 by Greer that cited 72 cases of cats in which 37 died from eating Philodendrons.


This picture is the split leave variety call the Saddle Leaf  Philodendron. This is a large family so if you are not sure ask.

Other plants to be careful with are in the Amaryllis family which include the Daffodil. The poisonous part of these plants is the bulb and most reported poisonings were when the bulb was confused with an onion.  Digestion of the leaves will cause salivation, vomiting and diarrhoea.  As you can see, this can be very dangerous for a small child.

If it happens call for help

There is a lot to remember so try to keep it simple.  Take care in where you place your plants.  If you have large floor plants, it is OK to put a stake that identifies what it is.  Have the Poison Control number right next to your Doctor's.  Then if you find that you child, dog or cat has chewed on a plant you will have the information at your disposal for the center when you call.   It is best to be safe than sorry. 

I want to thank my reader who submitted this question.  It is an important issue to remember when bringing plants into our homes.  If you have any other questions, post them here or email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com .

k.k.jones

The Good Old Corn Plant

Dracaena fragrans

I thought I would give you a little treat today by showing you just why the corn plant has a name of "fragrans" which as those of you who have studied the romantic languages know means fragrant. 

Here it is.  I have had my "Dracaena fragrans" for over 8 years and this is the first time I have seen it bloom.  The poor thing has been delegated to a shady balcony until my recent move to a house and a sunny patio.  The flower is clustered on a long stalk like an orchid and it takes almost as long to blossom. 

The photo below show the whole flower stalk.  It is very heavy and the bottom of the stalk is at the top of the picture. 

k.k.jones


 

The Sun and the Bloom

Not enough sun and the corn plant's distinctive color variation on its leave will fade to a straight green.  So be sure to give it a bright filtered light.  To get it to bloom, you will need to add a little more light.  My little baby received full morning sun for 3 months before it set a bloom.  For those of you that live up north, that would be all summer.  Remember to keep it in a sunny window after you bring it back inside.  My stalk began to show in late November and the bloom you see above was in place on December 31st.  I am not sure if it popped it's bloom at night or early in the morning but it was waiting for me when I went out to check on it.  And yes it is fragrant.  The scent is stronger in the morning which makes me believe that blooms opened at night.

Well, I suppose I should go over the growing needs of this plant now that I have shown you the very unusual flowers.  First the lighting, as we have surmised is fairly high.  It will survive with less but will not be as happy.  The soil should be moist but not wet. It likes temperatures in the mid 70's and will tolerate as low as 50.  Mine actually is doing quite well with night temperatures of 40 but it is in a protected area.  Common problem is browning tips.  This can be from not enough water or the wrong kind of water.  The corn plant is sensitive to fluoridated water.  Fertilizing with a calcium base food will help protect against this. 

Well that is all for today.  All in all the corn plant "Dracaena fragrans" is a very easy plant to grow and makes a lovely houseplant. If you have any questions please email me at joneskathee@gmail.com or add comments right to this blog.

Flowers in a Box (Part 2)

Amaryllis

The second most popular flower that is given as a Christmas Gift is the Amaryllis.  The bright beautiful red flower can be as wide as 7 inches in diameter and is dazzling to all who see it.  The Amaryllis originates from South America with the most common varieties being Ferrari (red) and Apple Blossom (white & pink).  There are many more varieties as shown by my favorite supplier, White Flower Farm.  They sell 50 different varieties and even have doubles.

The Amaryllis usually comes one to a box and is about the size of a large fist. The container which is included is deep enough to allow adequate room for good root development but may not allow for drainage so be sure to not over water.  The diameter of the pot should be about ONE inch larger than that of the bulb. Although this may seem small, amaryllis bulbs prefer a smaller container. Plant the bulb so that at least one-third to one-half, of the bulb is above the surface of the potting medium. Firm the potting medium around the bulb, water it thoroughly and place the container in a warm, sunny spot.  The Amaryllis will send up a the flower stalk before it starts to develop leaves. Up to 4 large flowers will appear on one stalk, all facing a different direction.  This makes the Amaryllis a favorite for the Holiday Centerpiece. A hint to making the flowers last longer is to remove the plant from direct when the flower buds start to turn color.



Amaryllis Ferrari
 

If you are planning to keep the bulb for future blooming it is essential to fertilize the plants regularly after the bulb shows signs of growth.  Fertilize with a high phosphorus content. Move the plant back into a sunny location after blooming to help feed the bloom for next year.  Keep the flower stalk until it begins to shrivel and turn yellow.  While green it helps to manufacture food that will be stored in the bulb for the next blooming.  Continue to fertilize with a balance formula throughout the year.

The Amaryllis bulb does not have to rest between bloomings and can be grown in many gardens where frost is not an issue. I met one gardener in Jacksonville, Florida who had them  growing under trees to protect them from the frost and they were doing quite well.  If you are not one of the lucky ones who can do this then you can place your bulb, pot and all, right into the ground for the summer.  As they like to be a little pot bound, you should not have to change the pot for almost four years.



Amaryllis Apple Blossom

Bring your bulb in before the first frost.  Though no rest is needed, you can control the time it blooms by forcing it to take a rest.  You will need a minimum of 12 weeks to force a bloom.  This is not an exact science because your environment will affect the timing and it could take as much as 18 weeks.   I would suggest that you plant multiple bulbs at staggered times to be sure you have the flower you want for your Christmas Table.

To force your Amaryllis bulb into a rest period, stop watering and place in a cool dark place.  Discontinue fertilizing.  Do not cut off the leaves until they have dried and shriveled.  After 8 weeks, start to check bulbs regularly for signs of new growth.  When you see green, bring the pot into a sunny location and wait for the bloom.  The bloom should appear within 4 to 6 weeks.  Remember to start fertilizing with the new growth.

If you would like to learn more about the beautiful Amaryllis, I recommend a paper by Carl Hoffman and Mary Meyers of the University of Minnesota / Extension .  It continues with information about disease and bugs that can harm you bulb and what to do about it.

One more posting before Christmas.  This will be on my favorite Christmas flower the Cyclamen.  Pick one up if you see it.  The flower is beautiful and easy to care for.

Please email me, joneskathee@gmail.com ,  if I left anything out.  Send me any pictures of your Amaryllis and I will post them on this blog.  You can add comments right on the blog if you would like.