A Fresh Cut Christmas Tree

This is the week of Thanksgiving, Black Friday and Fresh Cut Christmas Trees.  So as many of us go to buy our trees, I thought it would be a good idea to go over picking a good tree and how to keep it that way.

Plan Ahead

You should plan ahead.  Plan where your tree will be placed and move the furniture to be sure you can live with the arrangement  Know how big your tree should be. You would be surprise how many people buy a tree way too big for their house.  I remember sitting at my brother's house and looking around a giant tree to watch "It's A Wonderful Life".

Check For Freshness

Once you pick your tree, you will want to check the needles.  Firs are the trees of choice because they are known to keep their needles well.  The most common are Douglas, Fraser and Balsam. Of those, I like the Balsam best.  You could also mix it up with a long needle Pine.  What ever you chose, test the needles before you buy.  Grab a branch and brush the needles backwards.  If they don't pull free easily then you know the tree is still fresh.  Many Christmas Tree lots will give the bottom of the tree a fresh cut but if you have the ability to do it when you get home it would be much better and the tree will stay fresh longer. The reason is that the stem of the tree will start sealing over almost as soon as it is cut.  If you cannot cut it fresh, place your tree in very warm water when you get home. The sap will soften allowing the tree to drink. One hour later add enough ice to cool off the water. Cool water will make the tree think it is still winter and slow down its drinking. The cooler the tree the longer it will last.  Remember to keep it watered.  Do not leave the lights on when you go out and enjoy it when you are home.

Wreaths

Fresh wreaths will dry out and drop their needles quickly because there is no actual way to water them.  To make them last longer, keeping them cool is the answer.  Don't place your wreath between your front door and your storm door. The sun will heat that area very quickly.  Instead, put it on the outside of the storm door.  There are magnetic hooks that you can put back to back on both sides of the glass to hang your wreath on.  Inside, keep it away from the heat vents and where the sun will shine on it during the heat of the day.  You can try misting it regularly which will help to keep them cool.  If your wreath does dry out and there is still some holiday left, spray it with hair spray to keep it from dropping.  WARNING: this will make it more flammable than just letting it dry. 

Recap

Remember to review the posts from last year about caring for Poinsettias. I noticed a beautiful way to display your Amaryllis this this year.  You will need a tall glass container and pebbles to plant the bulb in. Add pebbles to the glass container and then the bulb with more pebbles half way up the bulb.  Add water. As the leaves sprout the tall sides of the container will keep them from falling over and the stem of the flowers will also have the extra support, keeping them fresher.  To top it off, it is a beautiful presentation.

That should cover it.  If you have any questions, please comment below or send me an email to houseplantsos@gmail.com.  Meanwhile, may you and your family have a Happy Thanksgiving.

Sincerely,
k.k.jones

Live Christmas Trees

Today we are going to talk about the Ball and Burlap (B&B) Christmas Tree which is a tree that still has its roots attached and wrapped in burlap. This type of Christmas Tree has lost a lot of favor over the years as so many people have paid a lot of money only to have the tree die. The main reason it dies is because most people forget that this is a large living plant and has special needs to keep it alive.

Will It Grow Here  

If you are considering a B&B Christmas Tree, it is because you want to plant in in your landscape. Most trees that are used for Christmas trees are northern trees.  Look around your neighborhood and more important the empty lots and see what is growing there. If you don't see trees that look like Christmas trees then you should probably not try a B&B.

What Happens After Christmas and How to Prepare

The next thing you need to think about when buying a Ball and Burlap Tree is where you are going to plant it when the holidays are over.  This is a decision that has to be made now because a hole has to be dug before the ground freezes.  Be sure to mark the hole so that no one steps into it. If it is up near the house this may be a good place to put your large blowup lawn ornament.  A tarp over the hole will help to keep the snow out and make it easier to clear it when it is time to plant.  There are many sites to go to for instructions on how to plant but the one I found with the most complete information is from the Delaware Christmas Tree Growers Association.

Even if you decide that you don't want to plant it until spring you will need to "heal" it in. This is placing a root ball in a shallow hole (burlap and all) and covering with a layer of soil and/or a lot of straw. The nice thing about this choice is that you don't have to decide now and any shallow hole will do.  How about in the back yard near the house?  Then you will not have to schlep a large tree through the snow and nearer the house should help to protect it. 

Containers?

Now, let's talk about what you are going to put the tree in.  You will need a big, I mean BIG tub.  I found a 16 3/4 gal galvanized tub at the Home Depot which is a pretty good size. It is also silvery and you may consider keeping it that color. If you want to paint and decorate, put that on the list of things to do now.  A muck bucket is a little smaller and can come is several colors. These are a little harder to find but they are plastic and will be easier to keep nice.    

Okay, we have a hole and we have a container for in the house.  Finally, it's time to talk tree. The most common Christmas Trees are the Balsam and Fraser Fir and the White Pine but if you are looking to add to your landscape, your choices are many. Talk to your local nursery for ideas.

Care of Your Tree

When you bring your Beautiful Christmas Tree home place it in the container you chose and put it in a sheltered location that is not heated.  You will still want it to get a little light so a covered patio would be a great location. It will need to stay there for at lease a couple days before you bring it into the house to acclimate itself to warmer temperatures and less light.  Be sure that the root ball does not dry out. Next, bring the tree into the house and be sure that it is not too close to a heat source.  There are two reasons for this. One is that the heat will make the tree dry out and more important you do not want the tree to completely break its dormant cycle.  If the tree is too warm for too long it will think that it is spring and there is a greater possibility for it to freeze when it goes back outside. Plan on keeping your tree in the house and decorated for a maximum of 5 days.  While it is in the house you will not have to fertilize but be sure to mist the root ball to keep it moist.  If your decorations will allow, go ahead and mist the tree also.  It will help to keep the tree cool.  

When you are finished enjoying the Christmas Tree put it back to the cool outdoor area for a few more days before you plant it in the landscape. Follow the directions you your nurseryman gave you to plant the tree and if the ground is not frozen yet be sure to water well.

Well, that's it.  The secret of having a live Christmas Tree is to remember that it is not an indoor plant.  Enjoy it and then put it back to where it belongs.  As we get closer to Christmas we will talk about keeping a cut tree alive.  If you have any questions, please be sure to email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com.  I would appreciate any comments.  Just add them below.

Sincerely,

k.k.jones

 

November 5

Winter is around the corner and it is time to revisit some of the information I gave you last year. If you have been reading my blog, you know that I posted a number of articles last fall on getting ready for the winter.  So rather than repeating myself, I thought I should give you a summary and tell you where to get more information.

You should have already brought your houseplants into a protected area with the intent of taking them inside. There are two postings from last September that are good references for bringing your plants back in as well as saving some of your favorite garden plants through cuttings. 

Green For Christmas

Begonias are easy plants to start from
cuttings and will root quickly

New plants from cuttings are inexpensive Christmas gifts and now is the time to get them started.  Even friends with 'not to green thumbs' love to get plants as gifts, especially if it is from someone whose gardening skills they admire. The post entitled Saving Your Favorites tell you how to make a Propagation Container to created new plants from cuttings. Choose something that they have admired in your home and trim just below a leaf nod. You will need at least one remaining leaf and one nod with leaf removed for a good cutting. The not with the leaf removed will be buried in your potting medium. Here is a link to a diagram showing the Parts of a Plant. You can see that the nod is where the leaf has emerged from the stem.  The bud right above the leaf is where the root will emerge. The amount of time to get a good root is between 4 to 6 weeks so don't wait. Of course you could use the new plants as boxing day gifts or if you want a little more show, start now for spring.

Red for Christmas

The poinsettias you saved from last year should be placed in a spot that will give them a full 10 hours of darkness.  They can take up to 7 weeks to develop buds. My favorite trick is to place the plant in the closet when you get home from work around 6 or 7 P.M. and take it out on you way to work around 6 or 7 A.M.  Check out my January posting So what are you going to do with your poinsettia now? for more detail.

The Legend of Poinsettias

A charming story is told of Pepita, a poor Mexican girl who had no gift to present the Christ Child at Christmas Eve services. As Pepita walked sorrowfully to church, her cousin Pedro tried to console her. "Pepita," he said, "I am certain that even the most humble gift, given in love, will be acceptable in His eyes." Pepita gathered a bouquet of common weeds from the roadside, for this was the only gift she could give. As she entered the chapel and approached the alter, her spirits lifted. Forgetting the humbleness of her gift, the girl laid the weeds at the feet of the Christ Child. Suddenly, Pepita's ordinary weeds burst into brilliant red blooms! This miraculous event was named the Flores de Noche Buena, or Flowers of the Holy Night. Today, we call these flowers poinsettias.

Today, Poinsettias come in a variety of colors and patterns and new ones are introduced every year.  Some of my favorites are Jingle Bells, Merry Christmas 2, Lemon Drop and Pink Elf.  Keep an eye out for them to shake up the usual at Christmas.

More Color, Give Me More Color

You should be feeding your Holiday Cactus as they are getting ready to put on their show.  Plant your Amaryllis Bulbs and your Paperwhites. If you haven't kept any bulbs from previous years, give yourself an early Christmas present.  These also make great hostess gifts for Thanksgiving. December 2012 postings will give you more information along with some great links on how to start and care for these plants.  

That's all for today.  Please comment on this post and tell me what you think. If I can help with any plant questions post them below or email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com . 

Sincerely,

k.k.jones

Cats and Houseplants

I came across a Pinterest called "cats in the garden" that I really love to follow.  It is all pictures of different cats as they coexist in people's garden and I thought that cats are a good subject for this special post.  Many people will tell you that cats and houseplants just don't mix.  I can't disagree more. You just have to know how to protect your house and plants just like you would if you had children.

First there is the digging 

It is a natural instinct for a cat to think that the any loose dirt is a potty box.  So how do you get them to stop? First be sure that the litter box is always a clean choice.  Next make your plants a less inviting choice.  The best way is to cover the soil.  An aluminum foil cover for the soil is the cheapest and fastest.  All you have to do is cut a circle the same size as the top of you pot, cut a hole in the center to allow the plant to emerge from the center and place in pot.  It might not be the most organic look but it gets the job done. You can also plant a ground cover like you would in the garden.  Baby's Tears (Soleirolia solerolii) is a nice choice, as well as thyme or moss.  Another option is mulch.  Cats do not like the smell of cedar or eucalyptus so these will keep them out of the plants.  This only works if you can tolerate the smell and you remember to refresh the mulch when it loses it scent.  The one that works best for me is a pebble mulch.  you can get small gravel for little plants and larger stones for floor plants.  AND the stones help to solve the next problem we want to talk about.

Cats like to climb

They also like to see out the same windows you want to use for your plants.  Since two objects cannot occupy the same space, one will have to move.  No cat owner can honestly say that they have never come home to a plant on it's side, dirt everywhere and a cat stretched out where the plant use to be.  The answer to this problem is to either make sure there is room for the cat and/or make the plant too heavy for the cat to move.  Get were the stones come in?  But that is not enough.  Make sure you have some weight in the plant's pot so that it does not become top heavy.  If you are using plastic pots, then you might want to put some heavy rocks in the bottom of them. The best solution is a plastic grow pot inside a beautiful ceramic decorative pot that can add weight and encourage good watering practice.

Teeth marks?

The last thing to think about is that cats, especially indoor cats, like to chew on green plants. Besides having raggedy leaves on your beautiful plants, there is always a concern that your cat may chew on something that will make it deathly sick.  I mentioned some of these plants in the post entitled "Is It Poisonous" and you might want to reread it.  The good news is that cats are trainable and as long as you give yours a plant it can chew on, it will stay away from the others.  Start the training as soon as you introduce your cat to your house.  Give your new cat a plant.  The one I have used for years is that green filler you buy in the spring for your container planting.  Its common name is an Asparagus Fern and will live for many years before the stems becomes hard and not tempting to chew.  It has nice long soft stems and you can encourage the cat to grab it by playfully dangling the leaves over its head.  Now you have established that it is okay to chew on this plant. When you see your cat display an interest in another plant, take it to the designated plant and show again that this plant is the one to chew. You will be surprised how quickly your cat will learn. Because of the inquisitive nature of cats, you may find that you will have to repeat this lesson with each new plant brought into your cat's world but the older your cat gets the less problem you will have.

I hope that this post will help you deal better with you mischievous roommate.  If you have any other questions or problems please forward them to me at houseplantsos@gmail.com or just add in them to the comment section below.

Sincerely,

k.k.jones

Location, Location, Location

Location is Everything

Every good real estate agent will tell you how important location is and every good gardener will tell you the same. The location of your plant is as important as the location of your house and micro climates are found everywhere. 
 

Micro Climates

For today's lesson, I present to you two plants that are in my garden. They are a common house plant in many parts of the country so they are a good choice to study. The one in the picture on the right is healthy and happy. You can see another in the background of that picture and its close up is on the left. They are both the same kind of plant. They were both cut down in the spring to bare stalks so that that both would grow at the same rate. How come the second plant is not doing well? 

They are less than three feet apart and one is just a little farther north. You can almost say they are planted in the same location. They got the same amount of water and food, so what was different? It took me a couple days to observe that though they were so close one got more sun.  The other was shaded only 20 minutes more by the large tree next door and that made all the difference.

So, What Does That Mean to You, an Indoor Gardener? 

Just think, if just 3 feet outdoors can create a completely different micro climate then how little space is need to change it indoors. The 36 inch window will have a shadier side; the tub of artificial light is brighter in the center than the ends.  Then there will be the outside factors.  The tree outside the window, the direction of the sun, the neighbor's fence, a lot can effect you best laid plans. 

So take a second look at the location you have chosen.  There can be many reasons for a plant not to do well.  Start with the things you can control.  Is it getting enough water?  Is there any sign of infestation by bugs?  Has it outgrown its location?  Then take a good look at the actual location.  What quality of light is being offered?  How is the heat?  Is it too close or too far from the source?  Could a breeze be causing damage?  Could it be the lack of breeze?   

It doesn't take a college degree to grow houseplants.  It only takes a little observation.  So keep  your eyes open and keep trying. Write me if you have any problems.

Reach me through this website or email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com

Sincerely,

k.k.jones

A Rabbit's Foot for Luck

Well it has been a while since I wrote and I apologize.  Summer is here and I have been out in the garden.  By now most of you have joined me and unless you are one of the many who only garden indoors, you probably did not even miss me.

I have a lot of things I have been gathering and lots pictures to help show you what I want you to know. I am starting today with a favorite of mine.  That is the Rabbit's Foot Fern (Davallia).

The Davallia fern is definitely not collected for its foliage but its growing habits makes it a "must have" for any person who wants something unusual.  The thing that makes it unique is that it would prefer not to have a pot and will continue to grow wrapping around itself or any other structure that will give it support.  The one above is in a wire basket with a little moss and bark chips to help keep it from drying out. Notice how  each rhizome looks like a little furry foot.  This is where this family gets it's name as footed ferns. 

The "fur" is small root hairs that help to hold water and allows this fern to tolerate lower humidity that most other ferns.  The one pictured is a Davallia fejeenisis (Rabbit's Foot Fern) which is the one that is the most common  in the US and can be bought in a small size at most garden centers. Other rather easy Davallia's are the canariensis, the pyxidata and the solida. Some of their common names are Hare's Foot, and Squirrel's Foot Fern. There are more Davallias that are more difficult and some that are even deciduous.  This means that they will lose their leaves in the winter and look like a large ball of roots. I would try to stay away from them if you are a beginner.

Water regularly in the summer when it is growing and then slow down in the winter when it goes into a dormant phase.  If your fern is in a basket with little or no medium, regularly may mean that you will need to mist a couple of times a week.  

When it is time to repot there are a few noteworthy rules to follow.  First and for-most: do not bury any root that has already exposed itself to the air. This is now an air root and will rot if buried.  Second: the potting medium should be course like you would use for an epiphyte orchid.  This allows the furry rhizomes to develop better.  Fertilizer is light and you can use a slow release or a half strength solution of a liquid formula.  

Pests to watch for are aphids, mealy bugs, scale and thrip. A good hosing or indoors a trip to the showers should take care of most infestations.

If you would like to know more about this fascinating plant check out  the Fern Society of South Australia, Davallia Study Group . Though I have owned Davallias over the years there is always something new to learn.  I thought it amazing that we usually buy our new plant in a plastic pot and this species does not like them.  Keep to the more porous pots.  If you cannot do a hanging basket because of the mess that is sometimes associated with it then use a clay pot.  

Well, that is all for today.  I hope this was worth the wait.  I promise that I will go back to writing more often.

Please direct any questions or comments to me in the comment area of this post or email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com.

Sincerely,

k.k.jones 

Jasmine for Jennifer

 One of my readers wrote that she had purchased a jasmine plant but could not get it to bloom.  So, here is probably the reason why.

How to Get a Jasmine to Bloom

Jasmine, though thought of as a tropical, like cooler temperatures.  To get it to bloom it will need night temperatures of around 40 degrees and day temperatures of 65.  This makes it a Spring bloomer naturally which also explains why my Jasmine is not in bloom and I had to borrow pictures from other sources.  I guess that means that your best bet to get your Jasmine to bloom now is to place it near the air conditioner.  

Jasmine also like sunny windows and are prime candidates for taking outside for the summer. The best time to prune is right after it has bloomed, as new flowers are formed on new growth.  Fall pruning may also cause you to miss blooms when it will re-bloom with the cooler temperatures.  

The Basic Care

I have already mentioned that the Jasmine likes a sunny location.  It will also do well under artificial light if you balance it with complete darkness.  Like most Spring and Fall flowering plants the amount of darkness they get helps to set the buds.

Watering is very important to this plant.  It should never be allowed to dry out.  Though you should be careful not to over water, this plant will do okay with a saucer to sit in.  

Fertilize lightly.  You should fertilize every other week with a half solution of low nitrogen fertilizer.  The nitrogen is noted by the first number in the fertilizer formula so a 10-20-10 solution would be best.  A 10-10-10 solution will do if you cannot find one, as this is a general formula for all plants. 

Hope this helps.  I will write again on the Jasmine and tell you more about it as there are 200 species. In fact when searching for a picture to put in this posting, I came across the picture of my "minature Gardenia" that I talked about in the posting "Catching Up On Odds and Ends". Looks like I will have to do a little more digging on that one.  If anyone knows which this is please write and I will share with others.

If you have any questions or pictures you would like to add to this blog please add to the comments or email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com.

Sincerely,
k.k.jones

Isn't She A Beauty

Thank you Jennifer for sending me this beautiful picture of a Mandevilla.  This is a beautiful example of a small plant that can become very large as it vines its way up.  Jennifer, can you tell us how lod your plant is and do you keep it prunned to be sure that it does not get to big?

For those of you who have never seen a Mandevilla, this is a pink one and the easiest to find.  It also comes in white, red and yellow.  I will dedicate a posting on this plant soon.

Jennifer also sent me a second plant that was not in bloom but it is one of my favorites too.  It is a jasmine plant.  Unfortunately, my download failed.  Maybe we can get Jennifer to resend this picture and hopefully it will be in bloom. 

 Thanks again.

Coleus A Jewely In The Garden Or On The Window Ledge

The Coleus is a common name for the genus Solenostemon. Don't bother using its genus name because not many people will know what you are talking about.  I actually had to look it up.  It has a blossom that grows ain a spike form and is very small.  I personally think that it takes so much energy for a plant to create a bloom that unless it is outstanding it should be cut off.  This will also allow the plant to branch and encourages more growth.


Many of the Coleus we see today are hibrids with a large varity of pattern in colors of red, green and gold.  Take a look at the two Coleus below.  The one on the left is a fairly old leaf pattern and the one next to it is a newer one that appears to have been created from it.

Rosy Dawn Gardens calls this coleus
"Under The Sea Electric Coral"

Care of Coleus

New this year, this style of leaf
is a Hort'couture

Temperature:  All Coleus are tender.  This means that though you will see them in many gardens they will not survive a freezing temperature.  Because of this they make great houseplants.  They like temperatures above 60 degrees and will tolerate a low light situation.  

Light: In their natural habitat, Colus will be found in deep to dappled shade.  This makes them great for a window that gets little actual sun.  A little extra light will keep the foliage color more intense.  

Water: This plant likes to keep its roots moist but be sure you allow it to drain so that it does not drown.  

Pests: Coleus can become infested with the list of common bugs I talked about before.  If you have forgotten you can see them on my Pinterest Board. The posting on 5/9/2013 will help you with instructions on how to debug. One bug that I did not mentioned was the soil gnat or fungus gnat.  This is a tiny black fly that will hover around the soil in the pot.  This insect is usually an indication of too much water. 

Propagation

Propagation is so simple. This is a wonderful first-timers project.    All you need is a mother plant, soil, scissors, water and some rooting hormone.  You may even try just take a cutting and place it in water. A cutting is taken from the mother plant with the top and at least two or three inches of stem.  Remove the lower leaves carefully so as not to tear the stem.  Dip the stem in water deeper than the nubs left over from the removed leaves.  Now dip into the rooting hormone to the same depth.  Place in soil that has been watered and you are done.  Be sure that you do not let the soil dry out and before you know it you will have a new plant.

This is the first time that I mentioned propagation of the plant I am talking about and I did so because it is one that you can share with all your friends and family.  Now is a good time to pick one up because gardeners use Coleus as annuals and are easily obtained from any garden center.  So go ahead and choose.  You can let it grow in the garden all summer and then propagate houseplants for your and your friends' homes.

I have added these pictures and more to the Pinterest Board Beautiful Foliage. If you have any questions or pictures of your own Coleus please email them to me at houseplantsos@gmail.com.

Catching Up On Odds & Ends

Strawberry Begonia

I added this picture and more to my Pinterest Board "Beautiful Foliage"

For the record, a strawberry begonia is neither a strawberry nor a begonia.  I do not know why it is called this except that it has a begonia looking leaf and it has marvelous runners like a strawberry that can grow up to two feet long.  

This plant is a Saxifraga Stolonifera which is an all together different family.  The runners make it a good grown cover in the frost zones between 7 and 10, but is favored as a houseplant because of it's beautifully marked foliage and the runners that will trail over the lip of a hanging pot. 

To grow inside, the Saxifraga Stolonifera likes a cool filtered sun.  It will grow in height to about eight inches.  You should feed it a standard fertilizer during the growing season.  Cut back on both fertilizer and water over the winter rest period.

Gardenia radicans?

 I have added some new pictures of this flower to

 my Pinterest Board "The Gardenias Are In Bloom".

Remember me telling you that the Gardenia is a large genus of plants?  Well here is one that I think is a good one to find.  As you see, the blossom is much smaller than the Gardenia jasminoides that I mentioned in a previous post.  This is a miniature Gardenia.  It grows in my neighbors yard and smells divine. Unfortunately, I am having difficulty finding out anything about this variety. It might be part of the radicans family but the ones I find on line do not have as many petals.  I am hoping that there is someone out there who might recognize it and tell us all more about it.  The plant is only about 3 feet tall which would make it a good plant for a conservatory or a large sunny window.  I will keep searching for answers.

I Guess I Know More Than I Thought

In February, I mentioned that sometimes plants do things that we don't think they should do.  My example was a flower stem of a phalaenopsis that I had cut off the plant after it was finished blooming.  I had stuck it in the dirt and to my surprise I watched it create two new buds.  I did not know what to think but hoped that the buds would become the beginning of plants, since I was sure that they could not really be flower buds.

Here is the update on this strange phenomena.  The buds dried out without producing anything.  Two more developed with the same results.  I finally removed the stem from the soil to see what was going on below and there was nothing.  So, my plant was the liar not me.  Do not let this discuorage you from trying something new.  My friend Rhona thinks that you can stick anything in the soil and it will grow.  Many times she is right.

Next time, we will talk about the wonderful world of colorful coleus.  These are great plants that can bring a myriad of color to the house. Until then, write me at houseplantsos@gmail.com or add any comments right here.

Begonia Part 2 - Tubers and Corms

Regal Begonia

Beauty from a Corm

I love this flower.  It is as beautiful as a rose and much more sturdy. The stem is short which means that it would be hard to place it in a bouquet but a single bloom in a shallow dish can really make a statement.  This is a Begonia Rex or sometimes called a Regal Begonia.  It is grown for it's majestic flower and it starts with a corm.

Corm of a Rex Begonia

For those of you who do not know what a corm is, it is a type of tuber.  The tuber most people are familiar with is a potato. As potatoes come in all different shapes and sizes so do tubers.  Corms are in the specific shape that is referred to as a button. Much like a bulb, it has an up and down side to it and needs to be planted correctly for the best results.  Unlike a bulb new plants will grow from the same corm and it can be easily propagated by cuttings the corm into pieces.  You just need to be sure that there is a good "eye" on each piece.  The corm is planted quite shallow in a wide mouth pot and placed in a well lit location.  You can buy this Begonia already blooming but for a bigger variety you can start with corms from a number of good growers.  I do not want to endorse any in particular so I will suggest that you ask the experts starting with The American Begonia Society .

Tubers That Are Not Corms

Also, included in the tuber family is the Begonia that they call a Rhizomatous Begonia.  This tuber looks more like a lumpy potato  and as you can see it can be quite large.  If you go to my Pinterest board on Begonias I have included a picture of a tuber without dirt and you can see that this style of tuber is more complex but much easier to cut apart for creating new plants. You plant it the same as you would the corm.   I have added a planting diagram at the bottom of the page to help answer any questions you may have.

The Rhizonatous Begonia usually does not have a showy flower and is mainly grown for its interesting leaf.  This is mine.  The leaves are about the size of a man's hand and have a hairy surface that kind of feels like new beard stubble.  The stems are very hairy.  I added a picture of the flower on the last posting so I will not take up space here.  What you do not know is how small the flower is.  Look closely at the upper part of the picture and you will see a small branching to the back of the plant.  This is not another plant behind my Begonia. It is the flower.  I will be adding some more of these beauties to my Pinterest board so you can see how beautiful they are.

Care

Like the rest of this family most tuber Begonias like bright but not direct sunlight.  It will be quite happy in an Eastern window.  If you need to put it in a Southern or Western window you would be wise to keep it back from the actual light by about 2 feet.

Some tuber Begonias will become dormant.  If yours starts to look peeked then this may be the problem.  Stop watering and allow it to rest.  If you loose all your leaves you will need to check the the tuber to be sure there is no rotting.  Replant in new potting medium and wait to see new growth before you begin to water.

Begonias like damp soil but not wet so be careful not to over water as they will rot.  They would prefer to be misted daily or placed on a humidity tray like I have mentioned.  

Well, that is it for today.  I hope you like my posting today.  I got more into the how and would like your opinion on this posting.  Would you like more postings like this, that would cover things like propagation through cuttings and seeds?

Add your comment to this blog or email me at  houseplantsos@gmail.com . Remember  to send me any questions you have or you can contact me through Fiverr to set up a Skype  diagnosis visit.

Til then, all my best.
k.k.jones

One last word, a Strawberry Begonia is not a Begonia.  I think it is called that because of the shape of its leaf.  We can discuss that at another sitting.
 

The Humble Begonia

From the Website of
The American Begonia Society

You know the cute little flowers that your grandmother put in her garden as an annual?  That is the Humble Begonia.  But it really is not as humble as you would think.  This little Begonia is part of a genus that has 1500 species and is the sixth-largest angiosperm genus. Not that you really wanted to know that but I thought it highlight the importance of this little "disposable" plant.  It is from the subtropics much like the Gardenias that we spoke about last time.  It is commonly called a Wax Begonia though its proper name is a Semperfloren.

Why Talk About An Annual In Houseplants?

Because it is it did not start out as a garden annual.  The Semperfloren is a shrub which is one of four divisions of Begonias. In areas where there is no danger of frost the Wax Begonia will continue to grow year round.  Many will also do very well indoors as a ever-blooming houseplant.   These little plants and other Begonia's like the Angel Wing Begonia have been staples in the English Conservatories and Greenhouses for years.  In fact there has been a National Begonia Society in the UK since 1945.  The Angel Wing Begonia is the closest in looks but it usually is collected for its beautiful foliage.  If you look at my Board on Pinterest I have shown two different examples of the beautiful Angel Wing.  Below you will see a Begonia that has the waxy look of a Semperfloren but the leaf shape more angel like.  I do believe that this is a Wax Begonia because of the size of the flowers.

So How Do You Take Care Of Your Begonia?

Taken at Rockledge Gardens, Rockledge, Florida

The best time to buy a Begonia is the Spring for obvious reason.  You can let them summer outside but I would not put them in bright sun or in the ground.  The reason for this is because when you bring them inside it will take longer for your plant to acclimate itself to its new home.  If you have a greenhouse window your Begonia will be very happy there.  Southern windows make nice homes, as well as a Western or Eastern. Since you can buy Semperfloren in six packs go ahead and try different locations throughout your home.  If your plant is getting too much sun, It will have burn marks on its leaves and if there is not enough sun, then it will get tall and lanky with leaves being sparse.

Flower of a Rhizomatous  Begonia
which we will talk about another time

Now for watering. 

Like many of the plants we have spoken about in this blog, the Begonia does not like wet feet.  In other words, too much water is a bad thing.  The best way to water is to place it on top of a saucer like you did your Gardenia. Water from above and let the excess fill the sauce below.  Make sure that the pot stays above the waterline.  A larger saucer will create a micro climate for humidity that most Begonias like.  Do not over water.

One last thing. 

 Begonias like to be a little pot bound.  If you place them in too large of a container they may die. If your plant is staying wet too long and looking peaked, then this might be the problem. Repot into a container that is the same size as the root ball after you have removed all the wet soil.  Use a good soil-less potting mixture for the best results. 

Well that is all for today.  Next time I will tell you about the Rhizomatous Begonia which is grown more for its beautiful leaves rather than its flowers.  The flowers are small and almost inconsequential as you can see if you again go to my Board on Pinterest .  I have added one more link for you to use as I have found it very useful Brad's Begonia World . Until next time I hope that this blog give you a home greener than before.

Please email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com or add your comments below.  If you need special help you can contact me through Fiverr where we can set up a consultation through Skype or a phone conversation.   

k.k.jones

The Gardenias Are In Bloom

  

You will see them popping up in garden centers and florists everywhere, making them a perfect gift for Mom on her special day.  If you received a bush for Mother's Day or are planning to purchase one for yourself there are a couple of things you should know.

Blossoms and a beautiful new bud

The Gardenia is a genus consisting of 142 species ranging in size from 2 to 49 feet.  The one you probably own is a Gardenia jasminoides which is commonly cultivated for a houseplant because they will only grow to 18 inches indoors.  This genus originates in tropical and subtropical regions of the world making it not hardy as an outside plant in the north.  Some people (including my sweet mother) love the flower so much that they plant larger bushes in pots for their patio.  If you want to try this, remember that you will have to find a home for them during the winter.  I did recently come across an advertisement for a new Frost Proof Gardenia that says that it is hardy even in the Midwest.  I am not endorsing it but I have included a link to Fast-Growing-Trees.com for anyone who wants to check it out.

Now back to your Gardenia

When you got your beautiful new bush it was probably covered with blossoms and lots of promising buds.  Now only a week later the buds have started to fall off.  Do not panic.  It is not unusual for a plant to go through a trauma when it is moved to a new home.  I will not lie to you.  Gardenias are not the easiest plant to keep in the house.  The reason for this is that being a tropical native it likes lots of humidity.  The trick is to give your plant enough humidity and still be able to live in your house.  The most labor intensive way of doing this is to mist the whole plant at least two times a day.  I don't know about you but I do not have the time for that.  And the flowers will not last as long if they get wet.
Instead set up a micro climate.  This can be done in two ways.  One you can get a table top greenhouse like the one shown on Gardenista. These tend to be small so be sure of their dimensions before you purchase.  The easiest option is to find a leak proof saucer that is larger than the circumference of your plant.  Fill it with stones so that your plant will sit above the water you will be adding to the saucer.  As the water evaporates the plant will be encased with the humidity.   This should take care of the humidity problem.

What else you should know

Gardenias like a lot of sun. The aphid that we spoke of last time find them very tasty. Spider mites should not be a problem only if you pay attention to the humidity.  Your Gardenia likes an acidic soil so you can share your morning coffee with it if you don't use cream.  In fact, your plant would love it if you give it some coffee grounds now and then.  

The Gardenia Bud

Well, I think that should give you enough information for today.  I would love to see your Gardenia.  Please send me a photo at houseplantsos@gmail.com.  Also, if you have a plant problem you need help with you can email me or post it right here.  Thanks for joining me today.

Sincerely,
k.k.jones

Cleaning, Debugging and Fungus

Plants like this Draceana need to have the
whole leaf removed back to the trunk.

Summer is around the corner and when you start the deep cleaning of Spring you should not forget your plants.  Outside you are pruning dead branches and clean beds.  Inside you should be doing the same.  Plants need to be washed down, trimmed, re potted and checked over for infestation or disease. 

Start With Washing 

Most plants can be washed down with mild soapy water using dish detergent or Ivory Snow Laundry Detergent. Be sure to wash both the top and especially the bottom of each leaf.  The dust on the top effects the plants ability to use the sunlight and the bottom is where the plant breaths. Also, the bottom of the leaves are where bugs will usually lay their eggs.  Remove any dead leaves. Plants that have no leaf stems such as the Draceana marginata or the Draceana fragrans (corn plant pictured in a previous blog) should have the complete leaf removed back to the main trunk. This step is important because the crevices make great hiding places for bugs. Furry plants like African Violets can be turned upside-down and and gently swished in a bath of soapy water.  Before doing this, be sure to brush off any heavy dirt with a soft clean paintbrush and water to keep planting medium intact.  Light airy medium may have to be covered.  (You are only placing the upper plant in the water, no the whole pot.)  Place wet plant in an area that has a gentle breeze to help dry the leaves.  Do not put in the sun because the trapped water on the leaves will act as a magnifying glass and burn them.



What to Look For

This is the horror we sometimes find on our houseplants. There are two 

infestations here.  One is the Aphid  and the other is white fly.  This is

a beautiful Bougainvillea that has  been attacked.  Both of these bugs 

love tender new growth so the first thing to do is to cut off the new 

growth.  Be sure too dispose of all infested cuttings into a bag before

any of the bugs escape to new branches.

 

Long winters with dry heat are notorious causes of disease and infestation so as you are washing look for some of these tell tale signs.  Small black or grey spots may be the beginning of scale.  White cotton looking spots are mealy bugs.  Small hard to see webs very near the stem joints are spider mite webs.  Little green bugs that cover new growth and blossom buds are usually aphids.  I have included an image link for you to check out to see some pictures of common houseplant bugs .  From there you can link into different areas to learn more about what you may be encountering

Combating Infestation

Scale found on a Bromeliad.  This is very

hard to deal with as the scale will hide in 

all the little crevasses. This will take 

great diligence to eradicate it. It is 

probably best to find a clean pup (small 

growth on the side) that is not yet

affected and throw out the rest.  

The plants that are most affected by the infestation should be quarantined from the others and watched more closely.  Chemicals in the home should not be your first choice of action and many of these can bugs can be eliminated with a simple soap and water bath when caught early.   If you have scale, you may need to use your nail or a soft nylon brush to remove the outer shell encasing the bug.  Strong sprays of water will help knock the aphids off the infested plant.  (Be sure to do this over the sink or outside so that the aphids will not land on another plant.)  Spider mites hate moist conditions so after washing be sure to mist you plant every day.  Though simple soap and water will take care of most problems it should be noted that it is not a once and done situation.  You will need to take special care to watch for continued problems.  There are mild insecticides available at you local garden center for quicker results or if you have an infestation you cannot handle.  Please be sure to read the label on how to use and and take the precautions seriously before you use them. If you have found an infestation of one kind of bug you should look for more.  It just makes sense that if conditions are right for one bug it may be just right for another. 

This is scale on a Jade Plant.  The

fleshy leaves make it much harder to

spot.  The best treatment is a

systemic pesticide.

Disease

I don't have a lot to say about disease.  Many times it is caused by one of three things.  First and foremost is air flow.  Just like you, if plant does not get fresh air it will become more susceptible to virus and fungus.  This could be easily rectified by make sure you do not create the second problem which is over crowding.  Plants that are too close together will not get the circulation they need and also, become more prone to coming down with the same disease as their neighbors.  Lastly, fungus can be caused by poor watering practices.  Crown rot is very common in houseplants and this is caused by water sitting in the crown of the plant for too long. (The crown is the top of the plant were leaves emerge such as the African Violet.)  To help combat this, people are told to water plants that are prone to crown rot from the bottom and it works quite well.  Another way to combat disease from watering is to be sure that you water during the day so the plant has time to dry its leaves before nightfall.  Here again is the need for good circulation and no overcrowding.  You can see that these three causes of disease are all intertwined.  Break one rule and the whole system breaks.  If you do find yourself with fungus, a simple home remedy that I learned from my orchid people is cinnamon.  Cinnamon has fungicide properties but be sure that you do not use too much and smother your plant.  Safe fungicides are also available at your neighborhood garden center for your convenience.

That is all for today,  Hope this posting was helpful.  If you have any questions, be sure to add a comments or email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com . Sign up for my mailing list and you can easily receive each new posting.

k.k.jones

Beautiful Foliage

Alocasia Amizonica  (African Mask)

I thought it would be a good idea to sway away from the flowering plants for a bit and maybe talk about plants that are bought for their beautiful foliage.  This is one of my favorites.  The Amizonica is one of a number of hybrids know for its marked foliage and it is easy to see why.  You can find it in many garden centers in sizes starting as small as a 6 inch pot.  The largest pot I have seen is a 10 inch.  They can get tall so be sure that you have a good spot to put yours. 

The Wikipedia definition of Alocasia is as follows:

Alocasia is a genus of broad-leaved rhizomatous or tuberous perennials from the family Araceae. There are 79 species [1] native to tropical and subtropical Asia to Eastern Australia, and widely cultivated elsewhere.

First thing you should notice in this definition is that this family is tropical.  This means that this plant likes warm temperatures.  You should generally not subject it to temperatures lower than 64 degrees.  Keep in mind that it will also not do well indoors next to the air conditioner outflow. If it is subjected to lower temperatures it will go into dormant conditions just like any other tuber.  I know that my plant sat on my desk for 2 years and was very happy until I go a promotion and my new desk was under the air conditioner.  My poor baby was sick and scrawny in less than 2 months.  It still has not recovered to its full beauty though it now has plenty of warm sun. 

Which brings me to my next discussion, light.  Sitting on the top of my desk, my plant reached for the florescent lights and grew a height of 4 feet.  Though mine did quite well under the artificial light, most growers will tell you to give your Amizonica plenty of sun.  With leaves about a foot wide and 3 feet long, it will make a good floor plant as long as it is in a sunny location.  Artificial light used to supplement sunlight should be no farther away than 2 feet.

The leaves emerge from the tuber on a single stem which means that there is no lower foliage.  This would make it a good candidate for a pairing between it and a low growing plant.  You should choose a plant that will like a medium or low light because it will be farther away from the light and shaded by the larger Amizonica.  For a pleasing combination, also choose a solid color leaf like an ivy. Or as smaller leaf like a pothos.  (I will post pictures of these plants on my pinterest so that you know what I mean. Look for Kathee Kit  Jones and the board of the same name.)


Last but not least, I have included a picture of the flower for you flower buffs.  It is not the prettiest of flowers but when you see one you know you are doing something right. I found this photo at GardenWeb and if you click on the words you can see more.

 

General Care Abbreviated

Needs good light
Do not let it get chilled
Fertilize once a month
Soil should be damp but not wet
When it starts to go dormant - stop watering


Thanks for following my blog.  If you have any questions or comments please add them to the bottom of this posting or email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com  I would love to hear from you.

Sincerely,
k.k.jones