Saturday, June 15, 2013

Catching Up On Odds & Ends

Strawberry Begonia

I added this picture and more to my Pinterest Board "Beautiful Foliage"
For the record, a strawberry begonia is neither a strawberry nor a begonia.  I do not know why it is called this except that it has a begonia looking leaf and it has marvelous runners like a strawberry that can grow up to two feet long.  

This plant is a Saxifraga Stolonifera which is an all together different family.  The runners make it a good grown cover in the frost zones between 7 and 10, but is favored as a houseplant because of it's beautifully marked foliage and the runners that will trail over the lip of a hanging pot. 

To grow inside, the Saxifraga Stolonifera likes a cool filtered sun.  It will grow in height to about eight inches.  You should feed it a standard fertilizer during the growing season.  Cut back on both fertilizer and water over the winter rest period.

Gardenia radicans?

 I have added some new pictures of this flower to

 my Pinterest Board "The Gardenias Are In Bloom".
Remember me telling you that the Gardenia is a large genus of plants?  Well here is one that I think is a good one to find.  As you see, the blossom is much smaller than the Gardenia jasminoides that I mentioned in a previous post.  This is a miniature Gardenia.  It grows in my neighbors yard and smells divine. Unfortunately, I am having difficulty finding out anything about this variety. It might be part of the radicans family but the ones I find on line do not have as many petals.  I am hoping that there is someone out there who might recognize it and tell us all more about it.  The plant is only about 3 feet tall which would make it a good plant for a conservatory or a large sunny window.  I will keep searching for answers.



I Guess I Know More Than I Thought

In February, I mentioned that sometimes plants do things that we don't think they should do.  My example was a flower stem of a phalaenopsis that I had cut off the plant after it was finished blooming.  I had stuck it in the dirt and to my surprise I watched it create two new buds.  I did not know what to think but hoped that the buds would become the beginning of plants, since I was sure that they could not really be flower buds.

Here is the update on this strange phenomena.  The buds dried out without producing anything.  Two more developed with the same results.  I finally removed the stem from the soil to see what was going on below and there was nothing.  So, my plant was the liar not me.  Do not let this discuorage you from trying something new.  My friend Rhona thinks that you can stick anything in the soil and it will grow.  Many times she is right.

Next time, we will talk about the wonderful world of colorful coleus.  These are great plants that can bring a myriad of color to the house. Until then, write me at houseplantsos@gmail.com or add any comments right here.


Thursday, June 6, 2013

Begonia Part 2 - Tubers and Corms

Regal Begonia

Beauty from a Corm

I love this flower.  It is as beautiful as a rose and much more sturdy. The stem is short which means that it would be hard to place it in a bouquet but a single bloom in a shallow dish can really make a statement.  This is a Begonia Rex or sometimes called a Regal Begonia.  It is grown for it's majestic flower and it starts with a corm.

Corm of a Rex Begonia
For those of you who do not know what a corm is, it is a type of tuber.  The tuber most people are familiar with is a potato. As potatoes come in all different shapes and sizes so do tubers.  Corms are in the specific shape that is referred to as a button. Much like a bulb, it has an up and down side to it and needs to be planted correctly for the best results.  Unlike a bulb new plants will grow from the same corm and it can be easily propagated by cuttings the corm into pieces.  You just need to be sure that there is a good "eye" on each piece.  The corm is planted quite shallow in a wide mouth pot and placed in a well lit location.  You can buy this Begonia already blooming but for a bigger variety you can start with corms from a number of good growers.  I do not want to endorse any in particular so I will suggest that you ask the experts starting with The American Begonia Society .

Tubers That Are Not Corms


Also, included in the tuber family is the Begonia that they call a Rhizomatous Begonia.  This tuber looks more like a lumpy potato  and as you can see it can be quite large.  If you go to my Pinterest board on Begonias I have included a picture of a tuber without dirt and you can see that this style of tuber is more complex but much easier to cut apart for creating new plants. You plant it the same as you would the corm.   I have added a planting diagram at the bottom of the page to help answer any questions you may have.


The Rhizonatous Begonia usually does not have a showy flower and is mainly grown for its interesting leaf.  This is mine.  The leaves are about the size of a man's hand and have a hairy surface that kind of feels like new beard stubble.  The stems are very hairy.  I added a picture of the flower on the last posting so I will not take up space here.  What you do not know is how small the flower is.  Look closely at the upper part of the picture and you will see a small branching to the back of the plant.  This is not another plant behind my Begonia. It is the flower.  I will be adding some more of these beauties to my Pinterest board so you can see how beautiful they are.

Care

Like the rest of this family most tuber Begonias like bright but not direct sunlight.  It will be quite happy in an Eastern window.  If you need to put it in a Southern or Western window you would be wise to keep it back from the actual light by about 2 feet.

Some tuber Begonias will become dormant.  If yours starts to look peeked then this may be the problem.  Stop watering and allow it to rest.  If you loose all your leaves you will need to check the the tuber to be sure there is no rotting.  Replant in new potting medium and wait to see new growth before you begin to water.

Begonias like damp soil but not wet so be careful not to over water as they will rot.  They would prefer to be misted daily or placed on a humidity tray like I have mentioned.  

Well, that is it for today.  I hope you like my posting today.  I got more into the how and would like your opinion on this posting.  Would you like more postings like this, that would cover things like propagation through cuttings and seeds?

Add your comment to this blog or email me at  houseplantsos@gmail.com . Remember  to send me any questions you have or you can contact me through Fiverr to set up a Skype  diagnosis visit.

Til then, all my best.
k.k.jones

One last word, a Strawberry Begonia is not a Begonia.  I think it is called that because of the shape of its leaf.  We can discuss that at another sitting.
 

Monday, May 27, 2013

The Humble Begonia

From the Website of
The American Begonia Society
You know the cute little flowers that your grandmother put in her garden as an annual?  That is the Humble Begonia.  But it really is not as humble as you would think.  This little Begonia is part of a genus that has 1500 species and is the sixth-largest angiosperm genus. Not that you really wanted to know that but I thought it highlight the importance of this little "disposable" plant.  It is from the subtropics much like the Gardenias that we spoke about last time.  It is commonly called a Wax Begonia though its proper name is a Semperfloren.

Why Talk About An Annual In Houseplants?

Because it is it did not start out as a garden annual.  The Semperfloren is a shrub which is one of four divisions of Begonias. In areas where there is no danger of frost the Wax Begonia will continue to grow year round.  Many will also do very well indoors as a ever-blooming houseplant.   These little plants and other Begonia's like the Angel Wing Begonia have been staples in the English Conservatories and Greenhouses for years.  In fact there has been a National Begonia Society in the UK since 1945.  The Angel Wing Begonia is the closest in looks but it usually is collected for its beautiful foliage.  If you look at my Board on Pinterest I have shown two different examples of the beautiful Angel Wing.  Below you will see a Begonia that has the waxy look of a Semperfloren but the leaf shape more angel like.  I do believe that this is a Wax Begonia because of the size of the flowers.

So How Do You Take Care Of Your Begonia?

Taken at Rockledge Gardens, Rockledge, Florida
The best time to buy a Begonia is the Spring for obvious reason.  You can let them summer outside but I would not put them in bright sun or in the ground.  The reason for this is because when you bring them inside it will take longer for your plant to acclimate itself to its new home.  If you have a greenhouse window your Begonia will be very happy there.  Southern windows make nice homes, as well as a Western or Eastern. Since you can buy Semperfloren in six packs go ahead and try different locations throughout your home.  If your plant is getting too much sun, It will have burn marks on its leaves and if there is not enough sun, then it will get tall and lanky with leaves being sparse.

Flower of a Rhizomatous  Begonia
which we will talk about another time

Now for watering. 

Like many of the plants we have spoken about in this blog, the Begonia does not like wet feet.  In other words, too much water is a bad thing.  The best way to water is to place it on top of a saucer like you did your Gardenia. Water from above and let the excess fill the sauce below.  Make sure that the pot stays above the waterline.  A larger saucer will create a micro climate for humidity that most Begonias like.  Do not over water.

One last thing. 

 Begonias like to be a little pot bound.  If you place them in too large of a container they may die. If your plant is staying wet too long and looking peaked, then this might be the problem. Repot into a container that is the same size as the root ball after you have removed all the wet soil.  Use a good soil-less potting mixture for the best results. 

Well that is all for today.  Next time I will tell you about the Rhizomatous Begonia which is grown more for its beautiful leaves rather than its flowers.  The flowers are small and almost inconsequential as you can see if you again go to my Board on Pinterest .  I have added one more link for you to use as I have found it very useful Brad's Begonia World . Until next time I hope that this blog give you a home greener than before.

Please email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com or add your comments below.  If you need special help you can contact me through Fiverr where we can set up a consultation through Skype or a phone conversation.   

k.k.jones












Thursday, May 16, 2013

The Gardenias Are In Bloom

You will see them popping up in garden centers and florists everywhere, making them a perfect gift for Mom on her special day.  If you received a bush for Mother's Day or are planning to purchase one for yourself there are a couple of things you should know.

Blossoms and a beautiful new bud

The Gardenia is a genus consisting of 142 species ranging in size from 2 to 49 feet.  The one you probably own is a Gardenia jasminoides which is commonly cultivated for a houseplant because they will only grow to 18 inches indoors.  This genus originates in tropical and subtropical regions of the world making it not hardy as an outside plant in the north.  Some people (including my sweet mother) love the flower so much that they plant larger bushes in pots for their patio.  If you want to try this, remember that you will have to find a home for them during the winter.  I did recently come across an advertisement for a new Frost Proof Gardenia that says that it is hardy even in the Midwest.  I am not endorsing it but I have included a link to Fast-Growing-Trees.com for anyone who wants to check it out.

Now back to your Gardenia

When you got your beautiful new bush it was probably covered with blossoms and lots of promising buds.  Now only a week later the buds have started to fall off.  Do not panic.  It is not unusual for a plant to go through a trauma when it is moved to a new home.  I will not lie to you.  Gardenias are not the easiest plant to keep in the house.  The reason for this is that being a tropical native it likes lots of humidity.  The trick is to give your plant enough humidity and still be able to live in your house.  The most labor intensive way of doing this is to mist the whole plant at least two times a day.  I don't know about you but I do not have the time for that.  And the flowers will not last as long if they get wet.
Instead set up a micro climate.  This can be done in two ways.  One you can get a table top greenhouse like the one shown on Gardenista. These tend to be small so be sure of their dimensions before you purchase.  The easiest option is to find a leak proof saucer that is larger than the circumference of your plant.  Fill it with stones so that your plant will sit above the water you will be adding to the saucer.  As the water evaporates the plant will be encased with the humidity.   This should take care of the humidity problem.

What else you should know

Gardenias like a lot of sun. The aphid that we spoke of last time find them very tasty. Spider mites should not be a problem only if you pay attention to the humidity.  Your Gardenia likes an acidic soil so you can share your morning coffee with it if you don't use cream.  In fact, your plant would love it if you give it some coffee grounds now and then.  

The Gardenia Bud
Well, I think that should give you enough information for today.  I would love to see your Gardenia.  Please send me a photo at houseplantsos@gmail.com.  Also, if you have a plant problem you need help with you can email me or post it right here.  Thanks for joining me today.

Sincerely,
k.k.jones




Thursday, May 9, 2013

Cleaning, Debugging and Fungus


Plants like this Draceana need to have the
whole leaf removed back to the trunk.

Summer is around the corner and when you start the deep cleaning of Spring you should not forget your plants.  Outside you are pruning dead branches and clean beds.  Inside you should be doing the same.  Plants need to be washed down, trimmed, re potted and checked over for infestation or disease. 

Start With Washing 

Most plants can be washed down with mild soapy water using dish detergent or Ivory Snow Laundry Detergent. Be sure to wash both the top and especially the bottom of each leaf.  The dust on the top effects the plants ability to use the sunlight and the bottom is where the plant breaths. Also, the bottom of the leaves are where bugs will usually lay their eggs.  Remove any dead leaves. Plants that have no leaf stems such as the Draceana marginata or the Draceana fragrans (corn plant pictured in a previous blog) should have the complete leaf removed back to the main trunk. This step is important because the crevices make great hiding places for bugs. Furry plants like African Violets can be turned upside-down and and gently swished in a bath of soapy water.  Before doing this, be sure to brush off any heavy dirt with a soft clean paintbrush and water to keep planting medium intact.  Light airy medium may have to be covered.  (You are only placing the upper plant in the water, no the whole pot.)  Place wet plant in an area that has a gentle breeze to help dry the leaves.  Do not put in the sun because the trapped water on the leaves will act as a magnifying glass and burn them.


What to Look For

This is the horror we sometimes find on our houseplants. There are two 
infestations here.  One is the Aphid  and the other is white fly.  This is
a beautiful Bougainvillea that has  been attacked.  Both of these bugs 
love tender new growth so the first thing to do is to cut off the new 
growth.  Be sure too dispose of all infested cuttings into a bag before
any of the bugs escape to new branches.
 
Long winters with dry heat are notorious causes of disease and infestation so as you are washing look for some of these tell tale signs.  Small black or grey spots may be the beginning of scale.  White cotton looking spots are mealy bugs.  Small hard to see webs very near the stem joints are spider mite webs.  Little green bugs that cover new growth and blossom buds are usually aphids.  I have included an image link for you to check out to see some pictures of common houseplant bugs .  From there you can link into different areas to learn more about what you may be encountering

Combating Infestation

Scale found on a Bromeliad.  This is very
hard to deal with as the scale will hide in 
all the little crevasses. This will take 
great diligence to eradicate it. It is 
probably best to find a clean pup (small 
growth on the side) that is not yet
affected and throw out the rest.  
The plants that are most affected by the infestation should be quarantined from the others and watched more closely.  Chemicals in the home should not be your first choice of action and many of these can bugs can be eliminated with a simple soap and water bath when caught early.   If you have scale, you may need to use your nail or a soft nylon brush to remove the outer shell encasing the bug.  Strong sprays of water will help knock the aphids off the infested plant.  (Be sure to do this over the sink or outside so that the aphids will not land on another plant.)  Spider mites hate moist conditions so after washing be sure to mist you plant every day.  Though simple soap and water will take care of most problems it should be noted that it is not a once and done situation.  You will need to take special care to watch for continued problems.  There are mild insecticides available at you local garden center for quicker results or if you have an infestation you cannot handle.  Please be sure to read the label on how to use and and take the precautions seriously before you use them. If you have found an infestation of one kind of bug you should look for more.  It just makes sense that if conditions are right for one bug it may be just right for another. 
This is scale on a Jade Plant.  The
fleshy leaves make it much harder to
spot.  The best treatment is a
systemic pesticide.

Disease

I don't have a lot to say about disease.  Many times it is caused by one of three things.  First and foremost is air flow.  Just like you, if plant does not get fresh air it will become more susceptible to virus and fungus.  This could be easily rectified by make sure you do not create the second problem which is over crowding.  Plants that are too close together will not get the circulation they need and also, become more prone to coming down with the same disease as their neighbors.  Lastly, fungus can be caused by poor watering practices.  Crown rot is very common in houseplants and this is caused by water sitting in the crown of the plant for too long. (The crown is the top of the plant were leaves emerge such as the African Violet.)  To help combat this, people are told to water plants that are prone to crown rot from the bottom and it works quite well.  Another way to combat disease from watering is to be sure that you water during the day so the plant has time to dry its leaves before nightfall.  Here again is the need for good circulation and no overcrowding.  You can see that these three causes of disease are all intertwined.  Break one rule and the whole system breaks.  If you do find yourself with fungus, a simple home remedy that I learned from my orchid people is cinnamon.  Cinnamon has fungicide properties but be sure that you do not use too much and smother your plant.  Safe fungicides are also available at your neighborhood garden center for your convenience.

That is all for today,  Hope this posting was helpful.  If you have any questions, be sure to add a comments or email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com . Sign up for my mailing list and you can easily receive each new posting.

k.k.jones



Friday, April 19, 2013

Beautiful Foliage

Alocasia Amizonica  (African Mask)

I thought it would be a good idea to sway away from the flowering plants for a bit and maybe talk about plants that are bought for their beautiful foliage.  This is one of my favorites.  The Amizonica is one of a number of hybrids know for its marked foliage and it is easy to see why.  You can find it in many garden centers in sizes starting as small as a 6 inch pot.  The largest pot I have seen is a 10 inch.  They can get tall so be sure that you have a good spot to put yours. 

The Wikipedia definition of Alocasia is as follows:

Alocasia is a genus of broad-leaved rhizomatous or tuberous perennials from the family Araceae. There are 79 species [1] native to tropical and subtropical Asia to Eastern Australia, and widely cultivated elsewhere.

First thing you should notice in this definition is that this family is tropical.  This means that this plant likes warm temperatures.  You should generally not subject it to temperatures lower than 64 degrees.  Keep in mind that it will also not do well indoors next to the air conditioner outflow. If it is subjected to lower temperatures it will go into dormant conditions just like any other tuber.  I know that my plant sat on my desk for 2 years and was very happy until I go a promotion and my new desk was under the air conditioner.  My poor baby was sick and scrawny in less than 2 months.  It still has not recovered to its full beauty though it now has plenty of warm sun. 

Which brings me to my next discussion, light.  Sitting on the top of my desk, my plant reached for the florescent lights and grew a height of 4 feet.  Though mine did quite well under the artificial light, most growers will tell you to give your Amizonica plenty of sun.  With leaves about a foot wide and 3 feet long, it will make a good floor plant as long as it is in a sunny location.  Artificial light used to supplement sunlight should be no farther away than 2 feet.

The leaves emerge from the tuber on a single stem which means that there is no lower foliage.  This would make it a good candidate for a pairing between it and a low growing plant.  You should choose a plant that will like a medium or low light because it will be farther away from the light and shaded by the larger Amizonica.  For a pleasing combination, also choose a solid color leaf like an ivy. Or as smaller leaf like a pothos.  (I will post pictures of these plants on my pinterest so that you know what I mean. Look for Kathee Kit  Jones and the board of the same name.)


Last but not least, I have included a picture of the flower for you flower buffs.  It is not the prettiest of flowers but when you see one you know you are doing something right. I found this photo at GardenWeb and if you click on the words you can see more.

 

General Care Abbreviated

Needs good light
Do not let it get chilled
Fertilize once a month
Soil should be damp but not wet
When it starts to go dormant - stop watering


Thanks for following my blog.  If you have any questions or comments please add them to the bottom of this posting or email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com  I would love to hear from you.

Sincerely,
k.k.jones












 

 

Monday, April 1, 2013

Happy Spring



 

Lilies, Hyacinths, and Tulips 


Spring Bulbs are showing up in the stores in full bloom.  They are beautiful and fill our homes with promise of the summer months to come.  With Easter coming so early, the lilies, hyacinths and tulips are the ones we will see the most of and  I thought we should talk briefly about these and how to care for them.

Lilies 

The lily is a tribe of plants called Lilium.  It has 2 large families called Oriental and Asia.  The lily that I have pictured here is called a Stargazer Lily and has become very popular over the years.  It is a  hybrid Lilium Oriental and is known for it's fragrant smell.  This lily usually blooms in the mid to late summer so if you have received one as a gift, there may be a possibility that you can get it to bloom again in the fall.

First you will have to let the plant complete the blooming. This plant wants full sun and will need to be put there to help feed the bulb.  With fertilizer, the blub may continue to bloom for a long time.  When it starts to look bad, stop watering and force the bulb into dormancy.  We have spoken before about how a bulb needs to rest so you know what to do.  If this is the first time you are reading my blog, cut off the faded greens and let the bulb rest in a shady area.

You can make your bulb bloom again inside but if you have a garden go ahead and plant it outside.  Lilies are hardy from zone 5 to zone 9.

Hyacinths 

The other heavy scented flower that you will see at this time of year is the hyacinth.  It's Latin name is Hyacinthum but you will rarely see this used.  It is a true spring bloomer and is easy to start from bulbs that you will buy in fall. 

If you get a hyacinth as a gift, give it lots of sun and do not over water it.  Plants that are over watered may collapse from the weight of their flowers. 

I have read that you cannot get a hyacinth bulb to bloom again but I have seen them bloom many times when planted in the garden.  This probably because they are fertilized when they are in the garden.  If you want to try to get a hyacinth blub to rebloom you will have to be sure that you fertilize.  The best time to do this is after the bloom and before the greens fade.  After they fade you can cut off the greens and repot in fresh soil.  The blub should be planted 3x the size deep and in soil that has good drainage.  Keep in a cool place and do not water until you see new growth. 

Tulips

Of all the flowers that you may receive as a gift this is one of the few that I will tell you to enjoy and then forget about it.  A tulip will continue to grow as it ages and so if you are picking you own tulips choose one with short stems.  Most of the tulips you will buy in bloom will have been forced. and it b is not one that you can easily rebloom after it has been forced.  If you want to keep the tulip bulbs you can find a place in your garden where they can regenerate unnoticed.  It will take two to three years before you see blossoms again.

 
I hope that this posting has answered any questions you may have.  If you have more, please post it here or email me at houseplantsos@gmail.com . I would love to hear from you.

Sincerely,
kkjones