My Favorite Christmas Plant

The Cyclamen, my favorite Christmas Plant

Here is a beautiful flower which I think is under appreciated.  With medium light and regular fertilizing you can have vibrant non-stop flowers all winter long.  The cyclamen is a large  family of plants and some of them can also be planted outside in some of the warmer frost zones.  But you are looking for a plant that looks like the one pictured here. The Cyclamen persicum is sometimes called a florist cyclamen and are definitely happier in you house.

It will bloom continuously but will be happier is it is given a 2 or 3 month dormant period.  We will talk about that later in the care section. 

First, I have not finished spouting the glory of these wondrous flowers.  They come in four colors that I know of.  Each color is effervescent in white, light pink, fuchsia and red.  I have seen them in two sizes.  One is small enough to fit into a large teacup and the other is a little bit bigger with a height of only 8 inches tall.  The sweet scented flowers are displayed above a crown of variegated leaves on erect stems, creating a beautiful bouquet of 3/4 inch flowers.  I have not seen many for sale since I moved to the south and I was pleased to see it on display recently.  If you have a chance to pick a cyclamen up, do it.

Now for the care

When you bring your cyclamen home from the store, it should be in full bloom.  To keep it that way you will want to keep it lightly watered.  Over watering may damage the tuber.  Try not to water the crown of the plant which could also cause rot.  Fertilize once a month with a formula that is higher in phosphorous.  This is the middle number in the list of numbers found on all fertilizer containers.

During the cyclamen's bloom time it will want bright, indirect sunlight.  That side table is perfect and it will love the artificial light too.  When it goes dormant, a dark cool location is preferable.  I use to keep mine next to an open basement window.

Keep the plant neat by cutting off any yellowing leaves and dead flowers.  I have found that if you pull them off, the cyclamen is one plant that will get upset.  The more you pull off; the more you will get. 

When you start to see a decline in your cyclamen, it is time to give it a rest.  Let the plant dry out and do not water for two or three months. Gently remove dead flowers and stems and replant into new potting medium.  Like most tubers, it is best to keep the very top above the soil.  When you see new sprouts, you can start watering again.   And it all begins again.

Flowers in a Box (Part 2)

Amaryllis

The second most popular flower that is given as a Christmas Gift is the Amaryllis.  The bright beautiful red flower can be as wide as 7 inches in diameter and is dazzling to all who see it.  The Amaryllis originates from South America with the most common varieties being Ferrari (red) and Apple Blossom (white & pink).  There are many more varieties as shown by my favorite supplier, White Flower Farm.  They sell 50 different varieties and even have doubles.

The Amaryllis usually comes one to a box and is about the size of a large fist. The container which is included is deep enough to allow adequate room for good root development but may not allow for drainage so be sure to not over water.  The diameter of the pot should be about ONE inch larger than that of the bulb. Although this may seem small, amaryllis bulbs prefer a smaller container. Plant the bulb so that at least one-third to one-half, of the bulb is above the surface of the potting medium. Firm the potting medium around the bulb, water it thoroughly and place the container in a warm, sunny spot.  The Amaryllis will send up a the flower stalk before it starts to develop leaves. Up to 4 large flowers will appear on one stalk, all facing a different direction.  This makes the Amaryllis a favorite for the Holiday Centerpiece. A hint to making the flowers last longer is to remove the plant from direct when the flower buds start to turn color.



Amaryllis Ferrari
 

If you are planning to keep the bulb for future blooming it is essential to fertilize the plants regularly after the bulb shows signs of growth.  Fertilize with a high phosphorus content. Move the plant back into a sunny location after blooming to help feed the bloom for next year.  Keep the flower stalk until it begins to shrivel and turn yellow.  While green it helps to manufacture food that will be stored in the bulb for the next blooming.  Continue to fertilize with a balance formula throughout the year.

The Amaryllis bulb does not have to rest between bloomings and can be grown in many gardens where frost is not an issue. I met one gardener in Jacksonville, Florida who had them  growing under trees to protect them from the frost and they were doing quite well.  If you are not one of the lucky ones who can do this then you can place your bulb, pot and all, right into the ground for the summer.  As they like to be a little pot bound, you should not have to change the pot for almost four years.



Amaryllis Apple Blossom

Bring your bulb in before the first frost.  Though no rest is needed, you can control the time it blooms by forcing it to take a rest.  You will need a minimum of 12 weeks to force a bloom.  This is not an exact science because your environment will affect the timing and it could take as much as 18 weeks.   I would suggest that you plant multiple bulbs at staggered times to be sure you have the flower you want for your Christmas Table.

To force your Amaryllis bulb into a rest period, stop watering and place in a cool dark place.  Discontinue fertilizing.  Do not cut off the leaves until they have dried and shriveled.  After 8 weeks, start to check bulbs regularly for signs of new growth.  When you see green, bring the pot into a sunny location and wait for the bloom.  The bloom should appear within 4 to 6 weeks.  Remember to start fertilizing with the new growth.

If you would like to learn more about the beautiful Amaryllis, I recommend a paper by Carl Hoffman and Mary Meyers of the University of Minnesota / Extension .  It continues with information about disease and bugs that can harm you bulb and what to do about it.

One more posting before Christmas.  This will be on my favorite Christmas flower the Cyclamen.  Pick one up if you see it.  The flower is beautiful and easy to care for.

Please email me, joneskathee@gmail.com ,  if I left anything out.  Send me any pictures of your Amaryllis and I will post them on this blog.  You can add comments right on the blog if you would like.

 



Flowers in a Box (Part 1)

Today we are going to talk about the gift boxes of bulbs that are popping up all over the place for the Christmas season. The ease of growing them to beautiful flowers make them a favorite for gardeners and non gardeners alike.

Paperwhites

Paperwhites are a pretty little white flower which is part of the narcissus family (Narcissus tazetta).  This is the same family as the much loved daffodil that heralds the spring but unlike the daffodil it does not have to go through a chill before it blooms.  This makes the paperwhite a good candidate for forcing and a much loved favorite at Christmas.  (Forcing is the process of making a plant bloom out of season.)

If you are luck enough to get these bulbs in a gift box, you will also get a container and potting medium.  If you have only the bulbs, here is what you will need.  You will need a container 4 to 6 inches deep.  It should hold water and glass is the material of choice.  The potting medium can be anything from stones to marbles.


Place two inches of potting medium in the bottom of your container.  Bulbs are placed on top with the point up.  It is OK to fit all the bulbs snugly into the pot because as they grow this will help them from falling over.  Place another shallow layer of potting medium on top of the bulbs but not covering them.  This will also help to keep them upright as they grow tall.  I have recently read about a study by Cornell University where small amounts of alcohol was added to the water after the roots have developed and this kept the paperwhites from growing too tall.  The study showed that the plant only grew one third the usual heigth but did not change the size of the flower.  If you would like to know more about this check out the following link. www.news.cornell.edu/stories/March06/drunk.flowers.ssl.html

Add water to the container up to the bottom of the bulb.  If you add more then you might get rot before you get a bloom.  Do not let your bulbs dry out and watch for signs of roots.  Sunshine is not necessary until you see the roots and then you want to move the container in a bright sunny spot.  The bloom should appear withing 3 to 4 weeks after planting.

Many people find the scent of the paperwhite to be a bit overpowering so be careful where you place it for display.  One small bouquet will fill a room with its scent so it is best to place it in a large room or one that is a little more chilly.  I found that the chill blends well with the scent and actually enhances it.  Of course, that is just my opinion.

After your paperwhite is finished blooming you can save the bulbs and try to make them flower again.  This is not always successful as forcing the bulb takes an enormous amount of strength from the bulb.  But if you want to try, first you must remove the spent flower and the stem.  Cut back on the watering and wait for the leaves to brown.  Lay the bulbs out on a newspaper to dry so that they do not touch each other. They are now ready for the garden.  Paperwhites are usually hardy to zone 5.  It may take a few years for the bulbs to recover so place them where their missing flowers won't be notices.

I have tried to fertilize the bulbs while they were blooming but with little success.  If you or someone you know has successfully gotten a second bloom from their paperwhites, please add you secret to this posting.

Next time we will talk about the amaryllis which is the other popular bulb that you can give at Christmas and even easier than the paperwhite.  Until then please write me at joneskathee@gmail.com or add any comments right on this page.

Poinsettias for Christmas

Countdown to Christmas

This Thursday is Turkey Day. For those of you who are unaware of the American holiday of Thanksgiving, this is the day we gorge ourselves with good food surrounded with family as we thank God for all we have before we make out our Christmas list for Santa. Yes, Thanksgiving is the official kickoff of the holiday season and with that comes the much loved Poinsettia. 

The poinsettia is a member of the Euphorbia family and originally hails from Mexico.  Starting as a simple red flower, hybrids have given us colors and patterns of red, pink and white. Each being more beautiful than the next.

But you know all this.  What you want to know is how can you keep it looking beautiful for the whole Christmas season.  So let's start at the beginning.

Choosing your poinsettia.  First you have to know that the coloring you see on the plant is not the flower.  The red (or what ever you have chosen) are leaves that have colored to attract pollinators to the little flowers in the middle of the leaves.  I hope you can see them in the picture I have included.  If you are buying your poinsettias early, be sure that you pick a plant that has not blossomed yet.  The buds should be tight and green.  Later they will open to reveal small yellow petals and longer stamen with read tips.  These plants will stay fresh the longest.  As for plant structure, choose a compact plant.  The branches are brittle and the compact plant branches will not break as easily. 

After you get you poinsettia home is when the hard part starts.  The poinsettia likes full sun but needs a minimum of 10 hours of complete darkness to set a bloom.  The bloom is already set so the complete darkness is not as important as the sun.  Where this becomes difficult is that most of us want to use our beautiful plant within our decorations. 

Here is what I have to say about that.  Place the poinsettia in an area where it will get what it needs to flourish.  Give it full sun that is out of drafts.  Keep it damp but not wet.  One hour before your company comes.  Place your plant where you want it to steal the show. Please do not put it too close to the fireplace. If you want to keep it in the same place all of the time you will have to plan to replace the poinsettia every 2 weeks.  The only other option is to buy silk.

After Christmas we will talk about keeping your poinsettia until next year.  If you have any questions, add a comment to this page or email me at joneskathee@gmail.com

Until next time, Happy Thanksgiving.
k.k.jones

Baby It's Cold Out There!

I have heard that snow has fallen, so winter is officially here.  By now your tender plants have come inside.  You have added the grow lights to the plants that need them and put the rest near the sunnier windows.  What next.

Winterize the windows.

When I lived in a cold region of the country my best friend was that film that you place over the window to keep the draft out.  Not the cheep stuff but the kind that you take your hair dryer to and it shrinks to a clear finish, allowing a maximum amount of sun to shine through.  About now I would be covering all the north and west facing windows with the film.  These are the two directions that most of the cold wind comes courtesy of the jet stream.  As it gets colder the next is the east windows. 

I liked to keep the southern windows uncovered for as long as possible to take advantage of the warm sunny days that surprise us throughout the winter.  It is wonderful to be able to open a window and get a little fresh air now and then.  Usually, I found that about the middle of January I would have "shrunk wrapped" the rest of the windows and even covered the coldest windows with draped for extra warmth. 

Now, why am I telling you all this?

It's because most of us think that winter is coming and everything has to be done NOW!  THIS IS NOT SO.  You do need to be prepared.  The film is available now.  It isn't as easy to find in January.  Planning for the placement of plants include grow lamps, bulbs, extension cords and you may need a fan or two to keep the air moving around tightly packed plants.  Try finding a fan in January.  If you find one now, it is probably on sale.  Buy it.  I have found that you can never have too many fans and all plants love some breeze.  Be sure to put down protection on the tables or floors against watering accidents.  Orchids that love to be misted all the time will need something to keep walls dry. 

Just because your plants are dormant doesn't mean you have nothing to do.  Late winter is early spring for houseplants so this is a good time to think about repotting your favorites.  Many garden centers have put their pots on sale to make room for the Christmas decorations.  Take an inventory of the plants that will need to be replanted and stock up.  Be sure that you have enough soil on hand or you will be working with frozen bags.

Well, I guess I have given you enough things to do before you get that bird in the oven.  If you have any questions, be sure to pass them on to me through this blog or my email address joneskathee@gmail.com.

I would love to hear from you concerning any specific problems you are having or just to say hi.  'Til next time, stay green.

Regards,
k.k.jones

The Easiest Plants to Grow!

Let's be realistic.  Some of us just don't understand plants.  We love how they make our home look more "homey", but we have killed more plants than we would ever admit.  If you are one of those people here is a short list of plants that are easy to grow and the directions on how to make them flourish.

First is the Pothos.

I love this plant for beginners.   It comes in different sizes with a leaf that is 3 inches wide to 3 feet wide.  The can be solid green, golden marble green and white marble green.

I love this plant because it is so easy to start and grow.  A small cutting from a health plant can be put in the water and grow into an enormous house plant.  This is one of the few plants I know that can live its whole life in water as long as it gets fertilizer. 

To begin, be sure that to have two or more nodes (places that leaves have been removed) to put in the water.  Only one or two leaves need to be left on the cutting.  As the new roots begin to develop be sure to add a liquid fertilizer in the water.  You can transfer the new plant as soon as it has a good set of roots or leave in water for a different look.  Leaving the pothos in water will entail watching for root rot which can be avoided be draining half the water and adding new water once a month.  Trim any soft roots away.  To develop a full lush plant, trim the end of the stem as it grows.  This will create branching and make the plant to develop new shoots from just above the root ball.

I have never had a pothos come down with a disease or be susceptible to bug infestation.

The Second is the Spider Plant

Correctly named Chlorophystum comosum, the spider plant has made my list of easy plants because of the fact that it does not need to be repotted.  In fact,  the wonderful babies on the end of long stems can only form if the plant is potbound.  To start a new plant you can place another pot next to the "mother" plant and just set the baby on top of the dirt of the new pot.  you can also wait for the baby to develop its own roots and plant directly into the pot without the stem.

The spider plant comes in a varigated leaf like the one listed and in solid green.  A number of years ago the solid green was the easier plant to find but because the varigated is so popular it has outshown the green making the most available.

Part of the care of this plant is to remove dead leaves as they will harbor insects that are hard to get rid of it established.  Watch for Scale, which is its deadly enemy.  Scale is a bug that has a hard shell and attaches itself to the leaf and eats.

Both of these plants will do well in natural light, but will also do well as a desk plant under florecent lighting.

Please email me or contact me if you have any questions. 
Thanks,
k.k.jones

 

My New Oncidium Orchid

My New Orchid

I was wandering through a craft fair yesterday and came across this beauty.  She is of the species call Oncidiums  For those of you who would like her proper name, she is A. Mtssa. Charles M. Fitch 'Izumi'.  This is important information if you are interested in buying this particular plant or if you plan get into orchid growing as a serious hobby.

Otherwise, just enjoy the flower.

As my experience yesterday shows, orchids are becoming easier and easier to find for the common indoor gardener.  You can find them almost everywhere, home improvement stores, grocery stores and even craft fairs.  So, I though you could use a little information to help you through. 

The orchid family is known to be one of the largest families in the plant world with over 5,000 names species.  They grow all over the world in all different terrains.   The ones that we are most familiar with are more semi-tropical and tropical.  Many are not grown in soil as they do not like wet feet.  This can make orchids a little difficult for the busy gardener because they still need water and their planting medium does not hold a lot. In other words, you will be watering smaller amounts more often.  One way of keeping them moist is to put them on (not in) a dish filled with stones and water.  This will increase the humidity of the orchid plants' environment.  I learned a neat trick when I bought an orchid from a big box store a couple years ago.  One or two ice cubes placed in the pot will release water slowly, allowing the orchid to drink what it wants and the medium will absorb moisture for later use.  This is a great time saver if you only have one or two orchids. It need only be done once or twice a week depending how dry your house is. 

Though you may not recognize my particular orchid, you have seen one of her sisters many times. Shades of yellow and gold are the most common colors of Oncidiums. Sometimes called "dancing dolls",  they look a lot like little girls dancing in the wind and showing off their long full dresses. 

Oncidium orchids adapt well to indoor living, doing well in an environment of cool to intermediate temperatures. They are not much different than you in their temperature needs.  Some will prefer a little warmer daytime temperatures but you can give it to them by placing them near a sunny window (which will also give them their lighting needs).  Be careful if you place them in a southern window that they do not get too much sun.  Just keep them back from the window about a foot.

For ideal temperature need: here are the recommendations of OrchidWeb.com .

Ideal night temperatures (fall, winter, and spring months) are 60°-64° Fahrenheit. Ideal daytime temperatures are 70°-85°F. Summer temperatures are generally a few degrees warmer.

Be sure to give them plenty of water while they are actively growing but cut back when they go into a dormant period.  Some people recommend a period of two to six weeks with no water during dormancy and directly after flowering.  I recommend a mild fertilizer mixture every time you water to be sure your plant is getting enough nutrients.

As for bloom periods: You can expect to see your Oncidium blossom twice a year.  This would be in the spring and the fall.  The blooms develops as a long spike called a spray.  New blooms grow from the top and sprays of some hybrids can grow up to four or six feet.  What I like best about orchids is that their blossoms last so long. One bloom can last for weeks. 

In closing, I would like to say that orchids are not hard to grow and as you probably know any plant  needs special care to get a blossom.  I hope that this blog will help you get started.  If you have any comments or questions, please add to this blog or email me at joneskathee@gmail.com .

Happy Gardening,
kk jones

Holiday Cactus

 

The Holiday Cactus - Schlumbergera

It's time to talk about the much loved Christmas Cactus.

First, the answer to the old question, "is there a difference between a Christmas Cactus and a Thanksgiving Cactus?"  Yes there is.  There are actually six species in the genus family of Schlumbergera.  The three most common are S. truncata, S. russelliana and a cross between the two S. buckleyi. Different places I have looked show different common names for the family.  I have included a good description of the plants that I found on Wikipedia to help you decide which plant you have.  This can be important because growers can force blooms out of season.  In other words, make a Christmas Cactus bloom at Thanksgiving and vise-versa.  All three will bloom in the fall between September and December.  Of course there is also the possibility that you have an odd plant that blooms whenever it wants.  My mother has one from my paternal grandmother that blooms every year for my father's birthday in March.

There is another plant called an Easter Cactus, that looks a lot like this family of plants.  It is related but it will not be discussed here and now.  I only mentioned it because one or two of you may ask.  If you want to know more about the Easter Cactus, e-mail me at joneskathee@gmail.com or add a comment to this blog.

Now, before you buy a Holiday Cactus you should know a few things.  First, this plant does not like to be moved.  So when you bring it home from the store, it will drop a number of flowers.  Find it a home in the house and it will create new blooms as long as you don't move it again.  Though it likes bright sun, to get it to bloom (or continue to bloom), the Holiday Cactus will want long nights and cool days.  A sunny window area to the east or west of your house will do well. 

Fertilizing is important before and during flowering as flowers take a lot of energy to create.  Holiday Cactus will like the same food that you would give a tomato.  Water the pot heavily and then let it dry out between watering.  Next year, cut back on the watering in the month of August to help the plant set its blooms. 

I hope that answers all your questions on this wonderful plant.  If you have any more, please forward them to me at joneskathee@gmail.com or add a comment to this blog.

Sincerely,

k.k.jones

 

Reprint from Wikipedia

The Truncata Group contains all cultivars with features derived mainly from the species S. truncata: stem segments with pointed teeth; flowers held more or less horizontally, usually above the horizontal, whose upper side is differently shaped from the lower side (zygomorphic); and pollen which is yellow. They generally flower earlier than members of the Buckleyi Group and although common names are not applied consistently may be distinguished as Thanksgiving Cactus, Crab Cactus or Claw Cactus.

The Buckleyi Group contains all cultivars with at least some features clearly showing inheritance from S. russelliana: stem segments with rounded, more symmetrical teeth; more or less symmetrical (regular) flowers which hang down, below the horizontal; and pollen which is pink. They generally flower later than members of the Truncata Group and are more likely to be called Christmas Cactus.

joneskathee@gmail.com

Saving Your Favorites

Winter will be upon us soon and if you are living in the north, you know that fall weather is unpredictable.  You may be enjoying 80 degree weather today and tomorrow the temperature may be in the 50's.  All your tender plants should be inside. There are some that can go for a little longer but why wait.  Place all your babies in their winter home so that when the dark days come they will have less trouble adjusting.

While we are talking about the wintering of your beloved houseplants, let's include a little about that beautiful annual you bought in the spring.  You found a wonderful geranium or impatient this year.  It matches your house perfectly and your garden was everything you wanted it to be.  Growers are always coming up with new varities to temp us so a problem may arise with trying to match it next year.  Unless you bought from the grower and have chosen one of his regulars you will have trouble.  So let's talk about keeping what you have. 

Many fleshy plants (as opposed to woody - bushes) are easily propogated. If you have room for it, you can take cuttings from your favorite plants and root them just like you do for your houseplants.  For those of you who have never started cuttings, we will go over it.

First, placing them in water is not the best way of propigation.  It will lead to weak roots that sometimes will not transfer well to the soil that you want to plant the cutting in later.  That is if they grows roots at all and do not just rot in the jar you placed them in.

It is best to start cuttings in pearlite which will give the roots something to push against and encourage stronger and thicker roots.  Here are the directions to create a  simple cutting container that I and may of my master gardener friends have found very useful.

Cutting Propogation Container

What you will need:

• 1 wide shallow waterproof bowl - I find that those cheap popcorn bowls work well.
• 1 small clay pot - This should be as tall as the above bowl is deep
• Silicone caulking
• Pearlite
• Rooting Hormone (for the cuttings) - This can be found in most garden centers and a little goes a long way.

Directions:

1. Caulk the clay pot to the bottom of the inside of the bowl. (Most clay pots will have holes in the bottom and this will keep the water from escaping into the bowl until it is needed.)
2. Fill the area between the bowl and the clay pot with pearlite. (This will be dusty; I recommend that you either use a mask or cover your mouth and nose with a scarf)
3. Water until the pearlite is moist.
4. Fill the clay pot with water. (The clay pot is porous and the water will seep out as the pearlite drys)

Preparing the cuttings:

1. Cut a part of the stem off the plant you are saving just below a set of leaves. Cuttings need to have at least two sets of leaves coming from piece of stem you are using. It is easier to also have the grow point, which is where the new growth emerges.
2. Take your cutting and remove all but the top two leaves.
3. Dampen the stem and dip it into the rooting hormone covering the lowest area that leaves were removed. You can go higher to cover more but roots will only emerge from the area that leaves once were.
4. Place the cutting in the pearlite deep enough to cover the area that we expect roots to emerge.  Be sure to make more cuttings than you will need so that you can uncover some to watch the progression of the roots.
5. Add light. The amount of light should be as close to the same as the original plant was placed in. IE: sunny, shady, etc.
6. Now the plant will take over and all you have to do is be sure that the center pot is filled with water.  Once you begin to see roots you can start adding small amounts of fertilizer to the water.
7. Many plants will begin to show roots in as little as two weeks and will be ready for potting before you know it.  Do not pot in soil until you have a good set of roots.

So that's it.  The simple instructions for starting new plants with cuttings will hopefully open a whole new adventure for you both outside and inside as you and your friends begin exchanging pieces of favorite plants. 

Please write me and tell me about your success and (God Forbid) failures.  Any questions can be added to this blog anytime.  I will be happy to respond.

Preparing for Winter

The Halloween decorations are out and winter is around the corner.  It's time to start thinking about bringing in the houseplants that you took out in the spring for a summer vacation.  Though it is only the beginning of September, you need to start think about where are you going to put them.  Their vacation gave them plenty of time to grow and they might not fit back into the place they wintered last year. 

Also, this may be a good time to check if they need a new pot.  Are there any roots coming out of the bottom?  Is the plant drying out faster than before?  These may be pot bound and may be ready for a new home.  Those that you planted in the garden will no longer fit in the pot you took them out of.  So take inventory and head out for your neighborhood garden center for some pots and don't forget the potting soil.

I am going to stress potting soil so that you do not try to cut corners and get the cheeper top soil.  Potting soil is lighter than top soil because of the different additived such as vermilculite and pearlite.  These things allow the plant's roots to breath better.  To save yourself some work you can get potting soil with fertilizer already in it.  The plant will go into dormancy over the winter so it will need very little and the fertilizer in the soil should be plenty until Spring when it is time to wake it back up.

While you are repotting check the plants for desease and infestation.  The last thing you want to do is bring unvited guests into you home.  Roots should be observed to be sure they are healthy.  You shoud also "tickle" them to tell the plant that it is moving to a new pot.  Tickling is the loosing and triming of any roots that have begun to circle the pot because it could not grow out. 

Taking a plant out of the garden can be done.  First, be sure that you cut a large eough root ball.  The root ball is the amount of dirt that you take out of the garden around the plant you are digging out.  Most plants have roots that extends double the area that the plant's top takes up.  You can trim the roots to fit the pot that you are putting it in but be sure to cut the top to equal the amount of roots that it lost or it will not be able to sustain the leaves. 

After you have your houseplant potted, check the leaves and stems.   Are there any Aphids, Mealy Bugs, Spider Mites?  Usually a mild solution of dish detergent sprayed on the leaves will take care of most problems, though it may need to be a strong spray to knock them off.  Persistent bugs can be eradicated with systemic poisons but it you have animals in the house I would use them as a last resort. 

Last, but not least, start placing your plants into a more shaded area.  Just like in the Spring you had to gently introduce the sun, you now have to prepare it to the conditions that it will find inside.  The process should take about two weeks so keep an eye on the weather and make sure that you have enough time. 

Well, that was a lot to cover.  If I missed anything, or  you have any question, comment to me and I will answer as soon as I can.  'Til then, stay safe.

A Tidy Plant is a Happy Plant.

Sorry about the lateness of this posting, I needed time to take care of a neglected yard.  As I was working I realized that when we get busy in our life, some things tend to slip through the cracks like the grooming of our beloved plants.


Grooming of a plant is as important as light and water as it helps to control infestations of bugs and desease.  How many of us have sat watching TV when a small flying gnat has landed in our eye or noticed a strange smell eminating from the plant corner?  Well good grooming will - Pardon the Pun - nip that in the bud.
 
The most important part of good grooming is the removal of all dead leaves.  All plants that will loose old leaves as the new ones continue to grow and develop.  A small scissors is the recommended tool because it is easy to get into a plant with it and if you are lazy like me, you can leave it right on the table next to the plant as a decorative piece.  I am recommending that you cut off the dead leaves becasue there are some plants like the Calathea that will not tolerate anything else.  If you try to just pull off the leaves it will do more damage to the plant than leaving them on. 

So you have your scissors in hand.  Let's groom.  Cut off all the dead leaves and remove them from the pot.  Now take a look at the stem.  Is there a small sheath left from the dead  leaf?  A sheath is the stem part of a leaf that wraps around the main stem.  This needs to be removed because the pockets that are formed by them are breeding grounds for bugs.  Carefully peel back the sheath so as not to injure the main stem.  Many plants like the dracaena family are easy to see and as they grow the seams where the leaves were attached acheives a barklike appearance.  The common Corn Plant is an example of this.  The fern family on the other hand is more difficult because most of this is underground and it is best to just trim as close to the soil as you can.  If you have any questions on the grooming of a particular plant, place a comment on this blog and I will get you an answer.

Now that the dead leaves are gone, take a look at the soil.  Is there a white crustation around the lip of the pot and over the dirt?  This is salt.  Treated water and fertilizer have salts in them that the plant does not use.  If you see the buildup happening, the pot needs to be flushed.  To flush a pot: Place it where you can create a continuous stream of water into the pot and allow it to drain out the bottom.  The secret is to keep flushing with fresh water for about five to ten minutes and then let all excess water drain from the pot.  Remember that you have not only removed the salt but also any fertilizer so the plant will now have to be feed.  If you cannot flush the pot because there is no drainage or it is too big to make it practical then you will need to top dress it.  To top dress a pot: Remove 2 inches of dirt off the top of the pot (less if it is a smaller plant) and replace with fresh soil.  Water lightly and feed.

Last but not least there are the roots.  I will only touch on this today as the care of the roots are a blog subject all by itself and I will talk in depth later.  If you have the little gnats in your house, they are most likely soil gnats.  These develop because of poor watering practices and the gnats are feeding on weak roots.  The simples solution is to give you plant a shower.  What I mean is for you to place a few drops of dish detergent into a spray bottle of water and mist the soil.  It is even good for the entire plant so go ahead and make like one of those crazy gardeners with the mister.  Mist you plant from head to toe.  It is best to do this in the morning so the plant has time to dry by nightfall, which is when dampness can lead to desease.
 
Well that is it for today.  Hope this was helpful.  If you have any questions or comments, I would love to hear from you.

The Marvelous Spathiphyllum

    

The Marvelous Spathiphyllum

I bet you thought  I would never get around to talking about specific plants.   Well, here is the first.

The spathiphyllum also know as the "Peace Lily" is one of my favorite beginner plant.  It needs little care, will do well in low light, and will even tell you when it is thirsty.

To begin, the spathiphyllum comes in a multitude of sizes.  The one pictured in this blog is a small plant but it will also come in a petite that will only grow to a heigth of six to nine inches.  It is a great table plant and does very well under a lamp.  In contrast, you can also find a full size spathiphyllum that will grow to almost four feet and needs a very large pot.  The larger example can have leaves that can measure up to twelve inches across and have blooms the size of a woman's hand.  These spathiphyllum's are a favorite office plant because they will do well in the low artificial light found there.

Now that you know what it looks like, let's talk about the care of this beauty.  The spathiphyllum is considered a low light plant because it will live quite well in this environment.  But, if you really like the beautifully simple flowers it will bloom better in a medium light.  The smaller varieties may want even a little more.  Low light is measured by candle watt.  The easiest rule of thumb is that in a south window you can say that high light is within two feet of the window.  Medium light is within four feet and low light is within six feet of the window.  Subtract two feet from these measurements for an eastern or western window and four feet from a northern window.  If you are not placing a plant in the correct light then you will need to add artificial light. 

It takes a lot of work for a plant to create flowers so make sure you fertilize it at least once a month during the summer which is when it would naturally bloom.  You can cut back in the winter unless you are actually growing your plant in artificial light and it does not know when to go into a dormant period.  I would advise that you do skip at least one to two months to force dormancy just for the health of the plant.

Remember me telling you that the spathiphyllum will tell you when it is thirsty.  Well, it will.  The spathiphyllum is one of the few plants that will actually lay down almost flat when you have allowed it to dry out too much.  Water it and it will stand back up like nothing happened.  Not that you should allow this to happen too often.  The strain on the plant will hold it back and may eventually be its demise. 

That's it for today.  Hope this blog was helpful.  Remember to write me if you have any questions on the spathiphyllum or any other of your problem plants.

When to Feed

When to Feed

Well, it is Sunday so it must be posting day.  Today,  I thought we should talk about the cycle of feeding your plant friends. 

Even for a plant that spends all it's time in the house, there are seasons.  The sunny window is less sunny in the winter than the summer.  The heat of the furnace is different than the heat of the summer.  Or the chill of the winter different than the air conditioned house.  So you need to know how your plant feels about this.

The Ficus Benjamina (Weeping Fig) is the easiest plant to demonstrate this.  I always say that is is called a Weeping Fig because it is always loosing leaves for one reason or another.  You move it and it will loose leaves. When the furnace goes on in the fall it will loose leaves.  When the summer comes and you open the windows it will loose leaves.  This is nothing to worry about.  Just find the place that is best for it and don't move it.  More important, when it starts to loose leaves do not feed it.  The plant is going through an adjustment and has placed itself into dormancy. You have to wait for it to start showing signs of new leaves before you begin to feed it again.

All plants will go dormant at sometime during the year.  Flowering plants will usually do thisthis is just after the blooms have fadded.  For plants that are grown for their foliage, this is usually in the fall.  The plant growth will slow down and does not need as much water and fertilizer as it did in the warmer months which is when you will notice the most growth.  Another dormant period may happen in the heat of the summer.  It is too hard for the plant to continue to grow and if you feed it to promote new growth, it will probably be week and spindlely.  The summer dormancy may not happen if you have your plants in an air conditioned house.  Just know that it could happen and watch for it.

How do you know if your plant is dormant?  Things to note are the amount of water it is drinking and the new growth.  If the plant is not drying out as quickly as it usually does then it is slowing down.  At this point there will be little sign of new leaves.  This is when to take your que and slow down also.  You can also trick a plant.  If you want a bloom at a time of year that it normally does not bloom then you need to create the same conditions that it will encounter during its usual blooming time.

The Florist Mum is a good example of this trick.  You may have noticed that you will see Florist Mums long before you see Hardy Mums in the Nursery.  That is because the Florist Mum is grown in greenhouse where shades are covering the windows for a longer night which is what a mum needs to bloom.  Plants are fertilized, the length of day is shortened, and behold the humble Mum. 

That could be a little hard to do for the beginner, so just know that it is possible.  The important thing to remember is that it is good to feed your plants an appropriate fertilizer.  But sometimes your plant needs a rest and does not want anything to eat when it is sleeping.

This summer appears to be expecially hot so watch and enjoy while you sip on your ice cold drink.  If you have any problems I can help you solve,  just ask.  'Til next time ....

Houseplants Outside

Houseplants 

I thought it would be a good idea to talk about the practice of moving houseplants outside for the season. The first chapter of my book starts with lighting and this blog is going to start there too.

What does moving a houseplant outside have to do with lighting, you ask? Well to put is simply, the shade outside is sunnier that the sunniest window of your house. So, if you have a plant in a sunny window and you take it outside, placing it in the sun, the leaves will burn. The leaves are not use to the strong sunlight and the tissue will dry out quickly along with any tender new growth.

It is fun to use a tropical in a garden to add that special touch to a landscape but you need to do it in steps. For those of you who know landscape gardening, you know how important it is to "harden off" annuals that were grown in a greenhouse before you plant them in the garden. This is not only because they are not use to the shift in temperature that will happen in the garden but also because of the light. Moving your houseplants is no different.

First find a protected area in your yard. It needs to be shady and if it is still early in the season, it should be protected from the elements. If you plant is placed near the house, it will be protected from the sun and unexpected frost. The heat of the house will also keep the temperature even. Watering becomes an issue as damp soil will insulate the roots from extreme temperatures. The plant is getting more sun and may dry out quicker than usual. Do not move from this protection for at least one week.

After this you can slowly move you plants out into the yard. For plants that are being moved into a sunny spot this process should take a minimum of two weeks. You can then either plant you houseplant in the garden or keep it in its pot for another pop of color in the garden. A nice use of houseplants is in containers with flowering annuals.

If you decide to keep your plant in the pot, you will have to watch the watering because it will dry out faster than your garden. Taking you plant out of the pot will make it easier to water but harder to bring back into the house in the fall. Roots will have spread and will have to be cut to get it back into the pot. An easier compromise is to put the houseplant into a grow pot and bury it into the garden. This will help to keep the plant from drying out too fast and make it easier to dig in the fall.

Well that is enough for today. Later in the year we will talk about bringing your treasured gems back into the house for the winter. Until next week...enjoy!